All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks

The Dungeon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Dungeon

L › R R › L A › Z

	5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	If and Only If S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	No Poppa (Link Up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Sugar Mama S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Waiting for the Fire (link-up) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	8,500 ft	2,591 m
GPS:	39.51707, -105.39664 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	130,923 total · 818/month
Shared By:	Mike Morin on Oct 12, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This wall hosts a handful of long, mixed, trad, and sport lines. To get the most out of this wall bring a light rack and a kneebar pad or two. The wall stays shady until mid afternoon (some routes all day), and some of the routes remain dry in a downpour. While the rock is not as good as what is found in the Tan Corridor, the climbing is quite fun.

Getting There

Follow the Climber Access trail past the Permission Wall, and take the spur for the Tan Corridor/Dungeon. Hang a left at the first cliff you encounter, and follow that trail. Once you are at a obvious left switchback, stay right and follow cairn's to the base of the steep wall. The trail is well signed.

29 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	The Dungeon Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Dungeon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 343 ● Unshackled Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 265 ● Backdoor Man Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 334 ● Light My Fire Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 93 ● New Beginnings Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 149 ● Daedalus Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 55 ● Big Excuse (Link Up) Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b 48 ● Zed's Dead Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 22 ● Soaked in Sin Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 168 ● Branching Out Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 143 ● If and Only If Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 96 ● Intolerance Test Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 58 ● No Excuse Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c 16 ● Tanuki Trad
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a 23 ● Sugar Mama Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 26 ● Big Poppa Sport

● Unshackled

343

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport

● Backdoor Man

265

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Light My Fire

334

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● New Beginnings

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad

● Daedalus

149

5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Big Excuse (Link Up)

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Zed's Dead

5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad

● Soaked in Sin

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad

● Branching Out

168

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

● If and Only If

143

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

● Intolerance Test

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

● No Excuse

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport

● Tanuki

5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad

● Sugar Mama

5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a Sport

● Big Poppa

5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport

More Classic Climbs in The Dungeon »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Routes Mostly Face: Northwest

Sunny Roughly 2pm to 7pm during high season

6am

8pm

Details: After 2pm in summer, routes to the right of Big Poppa are mostly in the sun. While the routes to the left of Zed's Dead have shaded lower halves. All routes go back into full shade 6:30-7pm.