Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This wall hosts a handful of long, mixed, trad, and sport lines. Plan on bringing a light rack. The wall stays shady until mid afternoon (some routes all day), and some of the routes remain dry in a downpour. While the rock is not as good as what is found in the Tan Corridor, the climbing is quite fun. The routes should improve with more traffic. For now, I'd say it's 4 star movement on 2 star rock. Bring a helmet, a stick clip, a kneeler pad or two, and enjoy.

Getting There

Follow the Climber Access trail past the Permission Wall, and take the spur for the Tan Corridor/Dungeon. Hang a left at the first cliff you encounter, and follow that trail. Once you are at a obvious left switchback, stay right and follow cairn's to the base of the steep wall. The trail is well signed.

22 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Dungeon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Dungeon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
The Uncertainty Principle
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 34
Unshackled
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 30
Implements of Destruction
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 46
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 28
New Beginnings
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Two in the Pink
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 14
Zed's Dead
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Soaked in Sin
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 30
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
Happy Endings
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Soaked in Intolerance
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 19
If and Only If
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
No Excuse
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Uncertainty Principle
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Unshackled
 34
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Implements of Destruction
 30
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Backdoor Man
 46
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Beginnings
 28
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Two in the Pink
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Zed's Dead
 14
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Soaked in Sin
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Branching Out
 30
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Happy Endings
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Intolerance Test
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Soaked in Intolerance
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
If and Only If
 19
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
No Excuse
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Dungeon »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Snagging the FA of Zed's Dead in the Dungeon:
vimeo.com/67039006 May 27, 2013
Sam Latone 1
Flagstaff, AZ
Sam Latone 1   Flagstaff, AZ
Does anybody know some routes in The Dungeon stay dry in the rain? Jun 4, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
If it's only a light rain, most off the routes stay dry. However, if it's a full on downpour, the only route that stays dry is Tanuki. Jun 4, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
My $0.02 as the last few trips here have been packed! Summer weekends don’t expect to have the classic routes to yourself. Those two burly 5.10s, Backdoor Man, Light My Fire, and Branching Out have everyone and their mom gangbanging these routes, and then the amount doubles when the Great Exodus from Tan Corridor happens. Warm up on 13a, climb weekdays, alpine start bike approach in, or wait for 2-5 people to dog per route. Aug 8, 2018

More About The Dungeon

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Guidebooks (12)

All Photos Within The Dungeon (51)

Most Popular · Newest · Random