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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Eric Schmeer, 10/12
Page Views: 1,493 total · 23/month
Shared By: AOSR on May 19, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This route went in ground up and is one of my favorite lines at Staunton. It's a little spicy and definitely heads up from the beginning through the crux. Before climbing it, I thought it might need a bolt or two, but it turned out to go completely on gear! Climb the steep face using the two seams for gear. Step right and climb slightly overhanging, fun moves to a left-angling hand crack (crux). Follow the crack system up to a short slab, pull a small bulge, head right, and pull a final bulge to find a bolted anchor below a tree at the top of the cliff.

Location

After walking up past the severely overhanging section of The Dungeon, look for the seams that lead to two beautiful, black streaks.

Protection

Rack to #3 Camalot.

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