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The Dungeon

Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Staunton Rocks
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This wall hosts a handful of long, mixed, trad, and sport lines. To get the most out of this wall bring a light rack and a kneebar pad or two. The wall stays shady until mid afternoon (some routes all day), and some of the routes remain dry in a downpour. While the rock is not as good as what is found in the Tan Corridor, the climbing is quite fun. 

Getting There

Follow the Climber Access trail past the Permission Wall, and take the spur for the Tan Corridor/Dungeon. Hang a left at the first cliff you encounter, and follow that trail. Once you are at a obvious left switchback, stay right and follow cairn's to the base of the steep wall. The trail is well signed.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 54
The Number of the Beast
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
The Executioner
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
5000 Candles in the Wind
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 195
Implements of Destruction
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
The Uncertainty Principle
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 343
Unshackled
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 149
Daedalus
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 189
Waiting for the Sun
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 3
Waiting for the Fire (link-up)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 334
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 265
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Dungeon Traverse
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Front Stoop
Trad
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
 23
Sugar Mama
Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 16
Tanuki
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 143
If and Only If
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 48
Zed's Dead
Trad
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 26
Big Poppa
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 55
Big Excuse (Link Up)
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 2
No Poppa (Link Up)
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 58
No Excuse
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 22
Soaked in Sin
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 24
Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 96
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 168
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 68
Happy Endings
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 93
New Beginnings
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 3
Rat Dance
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Ride Around the Block
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Number of the Beast
 54
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Executioner
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
5000 Candles in the Wind
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Implements of Destruction
 195
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Uncertainty Principle
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Unshackled
 343
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Daedalus
 149
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Waiting for the Sun
 189
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Waiting for the Fire (link-up)
 3
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire
 334
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Backdoor Man
 265
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dungeon Traverse
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Front Stoop
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Sugar Mama
 23
5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a Sport
Tanuki
 16
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c Trad
If and Only If
 143
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Zed's Dead
 48
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Big Poppa
 26
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Big Excuse (Link Up)
 55
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
No Poppa (Link Up)
 2
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
No Excuse
 58
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Soaked in Sin
 22
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
Soaked in Intolerance (Link…
 24
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Intolerance Test
 96
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Branching Out
 168
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Happy Endings
 68
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
New Beginnings
 93
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Rat Dance
 3
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad
Ride Around the Block
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Staunton Rocks.
[Hide Photo] Staunton Rocks.
Entering the techy 5.8 section.
[Hide Photo] Entering the techy 5.8 section.
A left side topo.
[Hide Photo] A left side topo.
These jugs ain't gonna tug themselves.
[Hide Photo] These jugs ain't gonna tug themselves.
From Bombardier Dome.
[Hide Photo] From Bombardier Dome.
The Dungeon's gatekeeper.
[Hide Photo] The Dungeon's gatekeeper.
The Steepness of The Dungeon. Photo taken the day I discovered the Dungeon in 2012.
[Hide Photo] The Steepness of The Dungeon. Photo taken the day I discovered the Dungeon in 2012.
Close up of the Dungeon.
[Hide Photo] Close up of the Dungeon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Monty
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] Snagging the FA of Zed's Dead in the Dungeon:
vimeo.com/67039006 May 27, 2013
Sam Latone 1
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Does anybody know some routes in The Dungeon stay dry in the rain? Jun 4, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] If it's only a light rain, most off the routes stay dry. However, if it's a full on downpour, the only route that stays dry is Tanuki.

Edit to add: Waiting for the Sun and Sugar Momma also stay dry. Jun 4, 2017