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Routes in The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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A DAD S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Contrapositive S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If and Only If S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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No Poppa (link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Resurrection (link-up) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Soaked in Intolerance (link-up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waiting for the Fire (link-up) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.51707, -105.39664 |
| FA: | Chandler Van Schaack & Shaun Reed, 3/25/17 |
| Page Views: | 2,646 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Chandler Van Schaack on Mar 25, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is basically a direct, all-gear start to "Backdoor Man" that follows the overhanging, double cracks in pink rock between the regular start of "Backdoor Man" and "Tanuki." It packs some powerful climbing with bomber gear into about 40 feet and connects to "Backdoor Man" at the fourth bolt. It is definitely way harder than the standard start to "Backdoor Man" but also way cooler, at least in the first ascentionists' opinions :) Be sure to get your gear right, as the ground slopes up somewhat with the route, so any blown pieces could be bad.
Location
Start 20 feet left of "Tanuki" and "Branching Out," and climb the overhanging twin cracks up to the fourth bolt of "Backdoor Man".
Protection
We used a total of seven pieces ranging from a blue Metolius up to a red camalot. A yellow/blue Metolius offset is useful but not mandatory. If you don't bring one, bring two yellow Metolius Mastercams. Once you hit the fourth bolt of "Backdoor Man," it is all bolts from there to the anchors.
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