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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Montgomery and Kevin Stricker, Summer of 2013
Page Views: 781 total · 34/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 27, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This is the first route left of the big overhang in the upper part of the Dungeon. The movement on this route is great, but the bottom half is still quite lichenous. Nevertheless, the climbing on the upper headwall is awesome!

Carefully climb up to the first bolt, then continue onward through an overhang. Clipping the 5th bolt with a shoulder length sling will greatly reduce drag. Continue up surprisingly steep jugs to a mantel move onto a sloping stance. Tech your way up the dihedral, and enjoy the gator skin finale.

Location

This is the first route left of the big overhang in the upper part of the Dungeon.

Protection

14 bolts to an anchor. A 60m rope is required (knot the ends!).

Photos

Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
Fun, pumpy route. Thanks, Dave, for dating the route, to make it safer for average 5.10+ climber. WOW to lead this with only 4 bolts. Oct 2, 2017
One of the best 10s around! Get on it. Jul 1, 2018

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