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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: M. Samet & D. Montgomery, 7/18
Page Views: 248 total · 248/month
Shared By: Monty on Jul 24, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

No Excuse starts 8 feet left of Soaked in Sin (SiS) on a velvety pocket-jug below a bolt with a rap ring hanger on it -- this rap ring hanger helps with the sideways forces that the first bolt experiences. Climb up to a roof, then power your way through a series of underclings, crimps, and slopers to a jug rest above at the 5th bolt. This boulder problem is in the V7/8 range, and it is nearly impossible to clip the 3rd bolt. I think the best way to clip the 3rd bolt is with a stick from the ground.... Just make sure you clip the 1st and 2nd bolt too to keep the rope out of your way while you’re cruxing.

Rest up at the jug, then layback your way past a few more bolts to another crux at the upper roof. This crux is probably only V4, but it feels really hard with a pump! Don't cheat yourself by escaping right to the crack on SiS -- the upper face crux is awesome! Lower from a shared anchor with SiS.

Location

No Excuse is about 1/3rd of the way up the steep wall of the Dungeon. SiS to the right, and the Big Papa project to the left.

Protection

10 bolts, all equipped with permadraws except the first bolt.

Photos

MattL
Boulder, CO
 
MattL   Boulder, CO
 
Great addition to the crag - nice work fellas!! There are multiple ways to do the lower crux, so don't get discouraged if you are too short for the tall-man beta. 1 day ago

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