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Routes in The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If and Only If S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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No Poppa (Link Up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waiting for the Fire (link-up) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | M. Samet & D. Montgomery, 7/18 |
| Page Views: | 4,358 total · 51/month |
| Shared By: | Monty on Jul 24, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
No Excuse starts 8 feet left of Soaked in Sin (SiS) on a velvety pocket-jug below a bolt with a rap ring hanger on it -- this rap ring hanger helps with the torque that the first bolt experiences. Climb up to a roof, then power your way through a series of underclings, crimps, and slopers to a jug rest above at the 5th bolt. This boulder problem is in the V7/8 range, and it is nearly impossible to clip the 3rd bolt. I think the best way to clip the 3rd bolt is with a stick from the ground.... Just make sure you clip the 1st and 2nd bolt too to keep the rope out of your way while you’re cruxing.
Rest up at the jug, then layback your way past a few more bolts to another crux at the upper roof. This crux is probably only V4, but it feels really hard with a pump! Don't cheat yourself by escaping right to the crack on SiS -- the upper face crux is awesome! Lower from a shared anchor with SiS.
Rest up at the jug, then layback your way past a few more bolts to another crux at the upper roof. This crux is probably only V4, but it feels really hard with a pump! Don't cheat yourself by escaping right to the crack on SiS -- the upper face crux is awesome! Lower from a shared anchor with SiS.
Location
No Excuse is about 1/3rd of the way up the steep wall of the Dungeon. SiS to the right, and the Big Papa project to the left.
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