Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Sin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle , The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: D. Montgomery & L. Stern, 5/13
Page Views: 466 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monty on May 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Closures Details

Description

"Who's motorcycle is this?"
"It's a chopper, baby."
"Who's chopper is this?"
"It's Zed's."
"Who's Zed?"
"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."

One of the steepest routes at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Climb past 5 bolts then work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. Clip a 6th bolt, fight through a final crux and enjoy the swollen forearms. This thing is PUMPY!

Location

It is in the middle of the steepest part of The Dungeon. Climb the obvious, overhanging dihedral.

Protection

In order:
5 bolts (with permadraws), BD #3, #2, bolt, red C3, C4 #0.75/#1. It is possible to get a couple more finger-sized pieces in, but that is the rack that worked for me.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
You no longer need a number 4 for this route, which means this route is much safer now too. Jun 29, 2017
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Is that C4 #4? May 29, 2013
kevin murphy
Lafayette, Colorado
kevin murphy   Lafayette, Colorado
Wow, incredible looking wall, crazy looking lines. These guys deserve props. May 26, 2013