Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: D. Montgomery & L. Stern, 5/13
Page Views: 1,187 total · 18/month
Shared By: Monty on May 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

"Who's motorcycle is this?"
"It's a chopper, baby."
"Who's chopper is this?"
"It's Zed's."
"Who's Zed?"
"Zed's dead, baby, Zed's dead."

This is one of the steepest routes at Staunton that will get better with traffic. There are no stopper moves but a lot of 5.12 that packs a huge pump. Climb past 5 bolts then work your way up the steep, left-facing corner with bomber gear. Clip a 6th bolt, fight through a final crux and enjoy the swollen forearms. This thing is PUMPY!

Location

It is in the middle of the steepest part of The Dungeon. Climb the obvious, overhanging dihedral.

Protection

In order:
5 bolts (with permadraws), BD #3, #2, bolt, red C3, C4 #0.75/#1. It is possible to get a couple more finger-sized pieces in, but that is the rack that worked for me.

Photos

kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
kevin murphy   Longtuckity, CO
Wow, incredible looking wall, crazy looking lines. These guys deserve props. May 26, 2013
ANGUS WIESSNER
Denver Colorad
 
ANGUS WIESSNER   Denver Colorad
 
From the ground, this is such a cool looking line five stars outta four! Like Samet said, Simply MEGA. Aug 26, 2018