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Routes in The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If and Only If S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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No Poppa (Link Up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waiting for the Fire (link-up) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Dustin Dyer, Todd Bol |
| Page Views: | 1,075 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | tbol on Sep 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
We didn't think anyone had climbed this route. So I am putting it on here because it was quite fun and not a bad warm-up. If someone has done this before, please correct me on the FA info.
Begin below a hand crack just left of Ride Around The Block. Broken and somewhat wide terrain just left of the prominent chimney takes you to the hand crack. Climb the hand crack until it becomes easy to angle slightly left to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner for a few moves. Next, head up and right towards the tree belay placing three or four small pieces. This pitch is quite fun and has some satisfactory gear tinkering.
Begin below a hand crack just left of Ride Around The Block. Broken and somewhat wide terrain just left of the prominent chimney takes you to the hand crack. Climb the hand crack until it becomes easy to angle slightly left to a right-facing corner. Follow the corner for a few moves. Next, head up and right towards the tree belay placing three or four small pieces. This pitch is quite fun and has some satisfactory gear tinkering.
Location
This is at the bottom of the West side. It is the second route on as you head uphill towards the main cragging.
Protection
Varied gear up to a #4 Camalot. The climb has somewhat spicy gear but definitely adequate if you are diligent. This climb shares the tree anchor with Ride Around The Block.
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