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Routes in The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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A DAD S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If and Only If S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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No Poppa (link-up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Resurrection (link-up) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Soaked in Intolerance (link-up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waiting for the Fire (link-up) S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.51707, -105.39664 |
| FA: | Kevin Capps, 2019 |
| Page Views: | 4,425 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Capps on Aug 27, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
Sugar Mama is a test of power with several challenging sequences that will leave you gasping for air as you battle the high elevation of The Dungeon! Begin with an interesting compression boulder problem to get past the second bolt, and establish a good rest. From here, navigate the crux section, which involves powerful pulls and deadpoints, to gain a positive crimp rail as you climb slightly left before continuing straight up past the last bolt.
Clip the anchor about halfway up the wall to tick Sugar Mama. There is an extension that doesn’t add any quality to the route but could act as a warm down victory lap. The climbing to the first anchor stays dry even in a downpour!
I originally rated this 13c and thought hard c could be right, but after many years of people adding their input, I would agree 13d may be the correct grade after all - not that it matters too much.
Location
This is the sport climb located just left of Tanuki and to the right of Two in the Pink. The anchor is about halfway up the wall.
Photos
Videos
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