Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Kevin Capps, 2019
Page Views: 3,779 total · 68/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Aug 27, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Sugar Mama is a test of power with several challenging sequences that will leave you gasping for air as you battle the high elevation of The Dungeon! Begin with an interesting compression boulder problem to get past the second bolt and establish a good rest. From here, navigate the crux section, which involves powerful pulls and deadpoints to gain a positive crimp rail as you climb slightly left before continuing straight up past the last bolt.

Clip the anchor about halfway up the wall to tick Sugar Mama. There is an extension that doesn’t add any quality to the route, but could act as a warm down victory lap. The climbing to the first anchor stays dry even in a downpour!

Location Suggest change

This is the sport climb located just left of Tanuki and to the right of Two in the Pink. The anchor is about halfway up the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Permadraws.

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