Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 39.517, -105.398 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 400,254 total · 3,929/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Staunton Rocks was the first established climbing area in the Park and the most popular area with currently the most routes in Staunton State Park. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.

Getting There

From the Staunton State Park upper parking lot, hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles, past the sign for the Red Wall and Old Mill Trail, until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. There's a bike rack in the meadow. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Here is the most up to date trail map. Please stay on trail and don't shortcut switchbacks. A lot of work has been done to manage our impacts.

Map of Staunton Rocks.

163 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 85
Harvey
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 177
Ginger Snap
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 266
Reef On It!
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
80 Grit
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 114
No Rain
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 129
Unshackled
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 76
Implements of Destruction
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 199
The Opportunist
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 77
No Opportunity Missed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 135
Ddong Chim!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 112
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 132
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 75
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 48
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 60
If and Only If
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Harvey Meadow Dome > Permission Wall
 85
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ginger Snap Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 177
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Reef On It! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 266
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
80 Grit Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 85
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
No Rain Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 114
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Unshackled Dungeon
 129
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Implements of Destruction Dungeon
 76
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Opportunist Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 199
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
No Opportunity Missed Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 77
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ddong Chim! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 135
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Backdoor Man Dungeon
 112
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire Dungeon
 132
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Branching Out Dungeon
 75
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Intolerance Test Dungeon
 48
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
If and Only If Dungeon
 60
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Staunton Rocks »

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