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Elevation: 8,500 ft 2,591 m
GPS: 39.5165, -105.3978
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 588,926 total · 4,268/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Staunton Rocks was the first established climbing area in the Park and the most popular area with currently the most routes in Staunton State Park. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Lazy V Lot: Take the Lazy trail to the Service Road, then go left toward the Old Mill trail.  Turn right on the Old Mill trail and follow it for a short distance until you reach the Staunton Ranch trail.  If you are going to the Tan Corridor, Dungeon, or anything on the west side of Staunton Rocks take a left on Staunton Ranch and follow it to the Climbing Access trail (kiosk).  If you are going to the Pooka, Cascades Wall, or anything on the east side of Staunton Rocks, continue up the Old Mill trail for another minute or two until you see a Climbing Access trail (signed) on your left.  

If the Lazy V parking lot is full, you will need to park at the Meadow parking lot.

From the Meadow Lot (near the park entrance): Hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles, past the sign for the Red Wall and Old Mill Trail, until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. There's a bike rack in the meadow. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Here is the most up to date trail map. Please stay on trail and don't shortcut switchbacks. A lot of work has been done to manage our impacts.

201 Total Climbs

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Location: Staunton Rocks Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 417
Reef On It!
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 268
Unshackled
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 325
The Opportunist
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 134
No Opportunity Missed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 229
Ddong Chim!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 206
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 252
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 74
New Beginnings
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 104
Daedalus
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 57
Welcome to Staunton
Trad
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 38
Zed's Dead
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 132
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 79
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 110
If and Only If
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 21
Big Poppa
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Reef On It! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 417
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unshackled Dungeon
 268
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Opportunist Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 325
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
No Opportunity Missed Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 134
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Ddong Chim! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 229
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Backdoor Man Dungeon
 206
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire Dungeon
 252
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Beginnings Dungeon
 74
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Daedalus Dungeon
 104
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Welcome to Staunton Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 57
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Zed's Dead Dungeon
 38
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Branching Out Dungeon
 132
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Intolerance Test Dungeon
 79
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
If and Only If Dungeon
 110
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Big Poppa Dungeon
 21
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Staunton Rocks »

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