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Areas in Staunton Rocks

Back 40, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Bombardier Dome 2 / 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Dungeon, The 10 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Marmot Tower 2 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Meadow Dome 20 / 24 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
Park View Dome 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pooka, The 2 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Ranch Hand, The 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Whistle Pig, The 1 / 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

Staunton Rocks is the first established climbing area visitors come to after leaving the trailhead. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.
Falcon Closures Details

Getting There

From the trailhead off of Upper Elk Creek Rd., hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. The trail at this point is a service road, and the Climber Access trail is an old two track. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Here is the most up to date trail map. Please stay on trail and don't shortcut switchbacks. A lot of work has been done to manage our impacts.

94 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harvey
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reef On It!
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ginger Snap
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
80 Grit
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elwood P. Dowd
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
The Babe With Power
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
No Rain
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Opportunist
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Opportunity Missed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ddong Chim!
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
New Beginnings
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Muricuh
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching Out
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
If and Only If
Sport
Harvey Meadow Dome > Permission Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Reef On It! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Ginger Snap Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
80 Grit Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Elwood P. Dowd Meadow Dome > Permission Wall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Babe With Power Meadow Dome > Labyrinth 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
No Rain Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Opportunist Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
No Opportunity Missed Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ddong Chim! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Backdoor Man Dungeon 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Beginnings Dungeon 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Muricuh Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Branching Out Dungeon 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
If and Only If Dungeon 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Staunton Rocks »

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Noah Yetter
Lakewood, CO
Noah Yetter   Lakewood, CO
Huge praise for the quality of trails and signs in this area. Can't think of another place I've been that has signs at every crag. Mar 19, 2017
PLEASE DO NOT HIKE OR BIKE THE ROAD THAT STARTS AT THE MAIN TRAILHEAD, as it is closed to all public use until the construction is finished and the signs are gone.
PLEASE DO NOT USE ANY GATES. They are for staff and volunteer use only. KEEP OUT!!! Nov 15, 2016
Matt Pierce
Denver, CO
Matt Pierce   Denver, CO
Very nice state park and great work being done in here. We recently visited for the first time and only explored a portion of the area, but we saw lots of great routes and lots of potential. Trails are in good shape in most areas. Be aware it is over 2 miles for the approach with lots of bike, kid, and doggy dodging :) Thanks to all who did and continue to develop this area - well done. Aug 26, 2013
Mike Morin
North Conway, NH
Mike Morin   North Conway, NH
Check out the Fixed Pin Guide to Staunton State Park. It's a good guide to the routes that were established in 2012 at Staunton Rocks. Apr 21, 2013
Can't wait to climb there, having grown up just down the road in Indian Hills. Is there somewhere I can find more info until it opens? Mar 28, 2013

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