Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 39.517, -105.398 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 302,074 total · 3,328/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013 with improvements by Alex A and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Staunton Rocks was the first established climbing area in the Park and the most popular area with currently the most routes in Staunton State Park. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.

Getting There

From the Staunton State Park upper parking lot, hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles, past the sign for the Red Wall and Old Mill Trail, until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. There's a bike rack in the meadow. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Here is the most up to date trail map. Please stay on trail and don't shortcut switchbacks. A lot of work has been done to manage our impacts.

Map of Staunton Rocks.

135 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 76
Harvey
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 149
Ginger Snap
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 224
Reef On It!
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 71
80 Grit
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 95
No Rain
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 91
Unshackled
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 161
The Opportunist
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 59
No Opportunity Missed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 103
Ddong Chim!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 91
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 97
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 40
New Beginnings
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 60
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 37
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 50
If and Only If
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Harvey Meadow Dome > Permission Wall
 76
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ginger Snap Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 149
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Reef On It! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 224
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
80 Grit Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 71
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
No Rain Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 95
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Unshackled Dungeon
 91
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Opportunist Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 161
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
No Opportunity Missed Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 59
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ddong Chim! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor
 103
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Backdoor Man Dungeon
 91
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire Dungeon
 97
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Beginnings Dungeon
 40
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Branching Out Dungeon
 60
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Intolerance Test Dungeon
 37
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
If and Only If Dungeon
 50
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Staunton Rocks »

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