Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 39.5165, -105.3978
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 582,536 total · 4,777/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Staunton Rocks was the first established climbing area in the Park and the most popular area with currently the most routes in Staunton State Park. The area is 2.1 miles from the trailhead and is accessed via a good trail, with little elevation gain. Formations include: Meadow Dome, The Dungeon, Marmot Tower, The Ranch Hand, Park View Dome, and The Back 40.

Getting There

From the Lazy V Lot: Take the Lazy trail to the Service Road, then go left toward the Old Mill trail.  Turn right on the Old Mill trail and follow it for a short distance until you reach the Staunton Ranch trail.  If you are going to the Tan Corridor, Dungeon, or anything on the west side of Staunton Rocks take a left on Staunton Ranch and follow it to the Climbing Access trail (kiosk).  If you are going to the Pooka, Cascades Wall, or anything on the east side of Staunton Rocks, continue up the Old Mill trail for another minute or two until you see a Climbing Access trail (signed) on your left.  

If the Lazy V parking lot is full, you will need to park at the Meadow parking lot.

From the Meadow Lot (near the park entrance): Hike or bike the Staunton Ranch trail for just under two miles, past the sign for the Red Wall and Old Mill Trail, until you come to the Climber Access trail on the right hand side of the trail. There's a bike rack in the meadow. Follow the Climber Access Trail two-tenths of a mile to the base of the Meadow Dome. From here, the trail leads in various directions to access the different formations that make up Staunton Rocks.

Here is the most up to date trail map. Please stay on trail and don't shortcut switchbacks. A lot of work has been done to manage our impacts.

Map of Staunton Rocks.

182 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Staunton Rocks Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Staunton Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 84
Restaurant At The End Of The Uni…
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 355
Reef On It!
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 211
Unshackled
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 119
Implements of Destruction
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 280
The Opportunist
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 113
No Opportunity Missed
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 192
Ddong Chim!
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 164
Backdoor Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 199
Light My Fire
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 109
Waiting for the Sun
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 63
New Beginnings
Trad
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 73
Daedalus
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 104
Branching Out
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 66
Intolerance Test
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 82
If and Only If
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Restaurant At The End Of Th… Pooka > 3. Astronomy Wall
 84
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Reef On It! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 355
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unshackled Dungeon
 211
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Implements of Destruction Dungeon
 119
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Opportunist Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 280
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
No Opportunity Missed Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 113
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
Ddong Chim! Meadow Dome > Tan Corridor > Upper Tan Corridor
 192
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Backdoor Man Dungeon
 164
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Light My Fire Dungeon
 199
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Waiting for the Sun Dungeon
 109
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Beginnings Dungeon
 63
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Daedalus Dungeon
 73
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Branching Out Dungeon
 104
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Intolerance Test Dungeon
 66
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
If and Only If Dungeon
 82
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Staunton Rocks »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos