Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Kevin Capps, 2016
Page Views: 2,588 total · 92/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Aug 23, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Superb pumpiness on mostly good holds! Start just left of New Beginnings, and climb up and left through some 12- climbing to get to a huge jug. From there, trend up and left on mostly jugs to encounter a midway crux that is probably 12+ on its own. This route builds in pump the higher you climb until reaching a great rest towards the top. Rest up on the ledge, and keep it together for some fun 11- moves just below the anchor.

Location

Just left of Happy Endings, climb up and left.

Protection

bolts and a 2-bolt anchor, first half are perma-drawed 

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Photos

12-year-old Olivia pulling through the steep and juggy section.
12-year-old Olivia pulling through the steep an…
 3
In the thick of it.
In the thick of it.
 2
Getting into the crux.
Getting into the crux.
 1
A topo for this side of the wall.
A topo for this side of the wall.
 0

9 Comments

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Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12c
This is a great route that will only get better with traffic. The movement is excellent on this one, and the bolts are right where you want them. I thought getting past the first bolt was harder than 5.11 though.... Anyways, thanks for the fine addition, Kevin! Aug 27, 2016
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.12d
Kevin Capps   Golden, CO
  5.12d
Thanks! Also, thanks for bringing me up there so I could bolt this! I can't wait to try your new rigs in the Dungeon! Aug 27, 2016
Josh Gross
 
Josh Gross  
 
Excellent route, great movement, sustained, and will definitely get better with traffic. Sep 22, 2016
Shaun Reed
Santa Barbara
Shaun Reed   Santa Barbara
Went to check this out on Saturday, but there was a red tag on the first bolt. Is this route open to climb? Mar 27, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12c
Hey Shaun, the red tag is on a route 3 routes to the left of this route. It still needs to be cleaned, so please stay off of it for a bit. Branching out is the second route from the right on the lowest part of the cave. Mar 27, 2017
Shaun Reed
Santa Barbara
Shaun Reed   Santa Barbara
Thanks, Dave! Glad we stayed off the red tagged route. It sure looks rad! Mar 28, 2017
Jeff Lodwick
Jeff Lodwick  
I think the red tag on the first bolt Shaun is referring to is the route shown in the picture called "closed project" just to the right of this route. Oct 20, 2017
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12c
^Jeff, that "closed project" wasn't bolted at the time of Shaun's comment :) Oct 20, 2017
Jcburgart
  5.12d
Jcburgart  
  5.12d
Perhaps one of the best 5.12s I've ever climbed! Varied holds, great movement, sweet crux, and I love the angle of the wall.

A must do for The Dungeon! May 9, 2018