Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Cody Scarpella, Dave Montgomery, 9/13
Page Views: 3,671 total · 29/month
Shared By: Monty on Oct 4, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This was one of the initial routes in The Dungeon that caught my eye. It took a lot of effort between Cody and I to unlock the climbing on this line. Much like Tanuki, the route doesn't look like much, but his magical shape shifting unlocks amazing movement.

This route tackles the steep angling crack system in the middle of The Dungeon. Steep and sustained is the name of the game. Big moves through jugs and locks leads you past a bolt and to a shake in the middle of the route. Rest up and embark on a 25 foot long crux sequence of thin hands, finger locks, deadpoints, and knee bars. Respect Tanuki's golden balls.

Protection Suggest change

2 bolts, rack from green alien - #1. Lower off from a two bolt anchor.
A kneebar pad on the left knee can be helpful.

Location Suggest change

Smack dab in the middle of the steepest part of the dungeon, this is just left of If and only If.

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