Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Cody Scarpella, Dave Montgomery, 9/13
Page Views: 1,520 total · 24/month
Shared By: Monty on Oct 4, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

This was one of the initial routes in The Dungeon that caught my eye. It took a lot of effort between Cody and I to unlock the climbing on this line. Much like Tanuki, the route doesn't look like much, but his magical shape shifting unlocks amazing movement.

This route tackles the steep angling crack system in the middle of The Dungeon. Steep and sustained is the name of the game. Big moves through jugs and locks leads you past a bolt and to a shake in the middle of the route. Rest up and embark on a 25 foot long crux sequence of thin hands, finger locks, deadpoints, and knee bars. Respect Tanuki's golden balls.

Protection

2 bolts, rack from green alien - #1. Lower off from a two bolt anchor.
A kneebar pad on the left knee can be helpful.

Location

Smack dab in the middle of the steepest part of the dungeon, this is just left of If and only If.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.13
It's possible to get a TR on this route with some minor shenanigans after climbing the Backdoor Man. I forgot how painful some of the jams are on this thing! Jun 29, 2017
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
This thing feels very stout for .13a, substantially harder than Zed's Dead or Soaked in Sin. .13b/c? Sep 9, 2018