Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Dave and Lisa Montgomery, 7/16 |
Page Views: | 8,456 total · 82/month |
Shared By: | Monty on Aug 24, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
While the route doesn't look pretty, the climbing is super fun! BDM shares a start with Light my Fire then travels right along the juggy rail, on the far left side of the main overhang.
Stick clip the first permadraw and start on two underclings. Don't clip the bolt directly above the first bolt, this is for the route Light My Fire. Boulder up to the first bolt then traverse right past 3 more bolts. Continue hand traversing the jug rail to the right until you can stand up and reach back left around the corner to clip. Alternatively you could climb straight past bolt #5, but the line of least resistance is to the right of the bolt line. Continue up the steepening wall above to a crux at the last bolt.
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