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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Sin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle , The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave and Lisa Montgomery, 7/16
Page Views: 1,011 total · 56/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 24, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Falcon Closures Details

Description

While the route doesn't look pretty, the climbing is super fun! The route can be easily identified by the 3 fixed permadraws that protect the initial traverse.

Stick clip the first permadraw and start on two underclings. Boulder past a quick sequence then traverse right past 2 more permadraws. To reduce rope drag, clip the next bolt (#4) with a shoulder length sling. Continue hand traversing the jug rail to the right until you can stand up and reach back left around the corner to clip. Alternatively you could climb straight past bolt #5, but the line of least resistance is to the right of the bolt line. Continue up the steepening wall above to a crux at the last bolt.

Location

This is the furthest left route in the main overhang of the Dungeon.

Protection

8 bolts. Bring 1 shoulder length sling and 4 draws as the first 3 are fixed for cleaning purposes.

Photos

evan h
Denver, CO
  5.12a
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.12a
Really fun jug hauling to a punchy, boulder problem crux. These moves aren't too bad, but add in the pump factor, and you'll have to fight. Great route! Jul 23, 2017

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