Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave and Lisa Montgomery, 7/16
Page Views: 2,291 total · 73/month
Shared By: Monty on Aug 24, 2016 with updates from Adam Block
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

While the route doesn't look pretty, the climbing is super fun! BDM shares a start with Light my Fire then travels right along the juggy rail, on the far left side of the main overhang.

Stick clip the first permadraw and start on two underclings. Boulder past a quick sequence then traverse right past 2 more permadraws.  Don't clip the bolt directly above the first bolt, this is for the route Light My Fire. To reduce rope drag, clip the next bolt (#4) with a shoulder length sling. Continue hand traversing the jug rail to the right until you can stand up and reach back left around the corner to clip. Alternatively you could climb straight past bolt #5, but the line of least resistance is to the right of the bolt line. Continue up the steepening wall above to a crux at the last bolt.

Location

This is the furthest left route in the main overhang of the Dungeon.

Protection

8 bolts. Bring 1 shoulder length sling and 4 draws as the first 3 are fixed for cleaning purposes.

Photos

evan h
Denver, CO
  5.12a
evan h   Denver, CO
  5.12a
Really fun jug hauling to a punchy, boulder problem crux. These moves aren't too bad, but add in the pump factor, and you'll have to fight. Great route! Jul 23, 2017
Jcburgart  
 
Super cool, 5.10/5.11, blocky, jug pulling to a thin-ish crux. May 9, 2018