Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Dave Montgomery, 10/12
Page Views: 935 total · 15/month
Shared By: Monty on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Soaked in Sin is both bouldery and sustained. The rock down low isn't pretty, but the climbing is fun and the rock gets better and better. Stick clip the first bolt, and crux your way past 4 bolts in to an off width pod. Find a trick rest, clip one more bolt, then enjoy the steep fingers to thin hands crack to the chains.

Location

This is between Zeds Dead and New Beginnings.

Protection

5 bolts (with permadraws), single rack from 0.4-#2 with doubles from .5-.75. This route was originally done with 3 bolts, but the gear in the offwidth section was never confidence inspiring due to the fractured nature of the rock.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12d
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12d
I've seen a handful of people try to stay in-line or slightly right of bolts 1 and 2. While this works, it might bump the overall grade a bit. The climbing is a bit easier (and more fun!) if you climb up and left of bolt 1 to the roof, then undercling traverse right to bolt 2. This was the intended line, and how I've always climbed the route. There's no wrong way of course, some are just more in line with the posted grade :) Oct 3, 2017
Pinklebear
  5.13a
Pinklebear  
  5.13a
Felt harder to me than all the 5.12d's and even the 5.13a's out right, but maybe I was tired. Or weak. Or short. Or old. Or fat. And/or all of the above... Jul 14, 2018
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
The bolt seemed fine, I tightened the nut, and it is good to go. I think some of the grade discrepancy on this route is due to the fact that you can go left or right at the first bolt with right being harder. Staying left the route felt like honest .12d. Aug 4, 2018