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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Sin T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle , The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Dave Montgomery, 10/12
Page Views: 366 total, 7/month
Shared By: Monty on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Falcon Closures Details

Description

Soaked in Sin is both bouldery and sustained. The rock down low isn't pretty, but the climbing is fun and the rock gets better and better. Stick clip the first bolt, and crux your way past 4 bolts in to an off width pod. Find a trick rest, clip one more bolt, then enjoy the steep fingers to thin hands crack to the chains.

Location

This is between Zeds Dead and New Beginnings.

Protection

5 bolts (with permadraws), single rack from 0.4-#2 with doubles from .5-.75. This route was originally done with 3 bolts, but the gear in the offwidth section was never confidence inspiring due to the fractured nature of the rock.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
I've seen a handful of people try to stay in-line or slightly right of bolts 1 and 2. While this works, it might bump the overall grade a bit. The climbing is a bit easier (and more fun!) if you climb up and left of bolt 1 to the roof, then undercling traverse right to bolt 2. This was the intended line, and how I've always climbed the route. There's no wrong way of course, some are just more in line with the posted grade :) Oct 3, 2017