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Routes in The Dungeon

5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Branching to Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
If and Only If S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginnings T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Soaked in Intolerance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tanuki T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Two in the Pink T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Dave Montgomery, 10/12
Page Views: 808 total · 13/month
Shared By: Monty on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Soaked in Sin is both bouldery and sustained. The rock down low isn't pretty, but the climbing is fun and the rock gets better and better. Stick clip the first bolt, and crux your way past 4 bolts in to an off width pod. Find a trick rest, clip one more bolt, then enjoy the steep fingers to thin hands crack to the chains.

Location

This is between Zeds Dead and New Beginnings.

Protection

5 bolts (with permadraws), single rack from 0.4-#2 with doubles from .5-.75. This route was originally done with 3 bolts, but the gear in the offwidth section was never confidence inspiring due to the fractured nature of the rock.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12d
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12d
I've seen a handful of people try to stay in-line or slightly right of bolts 1 and 2. While this works, it might bump the overall grade a bit. The climbing is a bit easier (and more fun!) if you climb up and left of bolt 1 to the roof, then undercling traverse right to bolt 2. This was the intended line, and how I've always climbed the route. There's no wrong way of course, some are just more in line with the posted grade :) Oct 3, 2017
Pinklebear
  5.13a
Pinklebear  
  5.13a
Felt harder to me than all the 5.12d's and even the 5.13a's out right, but maybe I was tired. Or weak. Or short. Or old. Or fat. And/or all of the above... Jul 14, 2018
Will brock
Boulder, CO
 
Will brock   Boulder, CO
 
Just a heads up the 5th bolt of this route is coming out. Be sure to bring enough gear to protect after the fourth. Also I agree feels hard at 12d. Jul 30, 2018 · Temporary Report
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12d
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.12d
The bolt isn’t coming out — the nut just needs to be tightened. I’m guessing that the link up into Intolerance Test is torquing the hanger in a way that loosened the nut. It’s always good to carry a small crescent wrench with you. Aug 3, 2018 · Temporary Report
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
 
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
 
The bolt seemed fine, I tightened the nut, and it is good to go. I think some of the grade discrepancy on this route is due to the fact that you can go left or right at the first bolt with right being harder. Staying left the route felt like honest .12d. Aug 4, 2018

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