Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Kevin Capps, 2020
Page Views: 744 total · 37/month
Shared By: Kevin Capps on Oct 2, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

The Dungeon Traverse is a juggy (or mostly juggy) voyage through the middle of The Dungeon. Begin on Backdoor Man, move right past the 5th bolt, and continue up above the anchor of Sugar Mama and through the bulge towards the top of the wall. The Dungeon Traverse is not a link-up of two routes but a separate, unique finish to Backdoor Man's start.

This route is a fun warm-up for the wall, with jugs for 95% of the climbing, aside from a short-lived crux moving through the short bulge higher on the route. The crux weighs in around 11+/12- and requires a strangely powerful layback sequence that finishes with a deadpoint to a jug.

New route alert: as you begin the initial traverse, please watch your step for small rocks or anything that might break off there. The route is still cleaning up.

Tree alert: there is a small tree growing out of the wall to the right of the crux. Let's try and respect the tree, and leave it in there. The tree also acts as a good separation barrier from The Dungeon Traverse's crux and the top of If and Only If. Staying just left of the tree keeps you on target for the crux of The Dungeon Traverse.

Location

Begin on Backdoor Man, and traverse right past the 5th bolt to the line of bolts above the anchor of Sugar Mama. Continue straight up above Sugar Mama's anchor and through the upper bulge to the top.

Protection

Bring 5 draws + 1 sling.

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