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Dungeon Traverse
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 20
votes
Routes in The Dungeon
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5000 Candles in the Wind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Backdoor Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Big Excuse (Link Up) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Big Poppa S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Branching Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Daedalus S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Traverse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Executioner, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Front Stoop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Happy Endings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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If and Only If S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Implements of Destruction S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Intolerance Test S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Light My Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginnings T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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No Excuse S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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No Poppa (Link Up) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Number of the Beast, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rat Dance T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Ride Around the Block T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Soaked in Sin T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sugar Mama S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Tanuki T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Uncertainty Principle, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unshackled S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Waiting for the Fire (link-up) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Waiting for the Sun S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Zed's Dead T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Capps, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,371 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Capps on Oct 2, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
The Dungeon Traverse is a juggy (or mostly juggy) voyage through the middle of The Dungeon. Begin on Backdoor Man, move right past the 5th bolt, and continue up above the anchor of Sugar Mama and through the bulge towards the top of the wall. The Dungeon Traverse is not a link-up of two routes but a separate, unique finish to Backdoor Man's start.
This route is a fun warm-up for the wall, with jugs for 95% of the climbing, aside from a short-lived crux moving through the short bulge higher on the route. The crux weighs in around 11+/12- and requires a strangely powerful layback sequence that finishes with a deadpoint to a jug.
New route alert: as you begin the initial traverse, please watch your step for small rocks or anything that might break off there. The route is still cleaning up.
Tree alert: there is a small tree growing out of the wall to the right of the crux. Let's try and respect the tree, and leave it in there. The tree also acts as a good separation barrier from The Dungeon Traverse's crux and the top of If and Only If. Staying just left of the tree keeps you on target for the crux of The Dungeon Traverse.
Location
Begin on Backdoor Man, and traverse right past the 5th bolt to the line of bolts above the anchor of Sugar Mama. Continue straight up above Sugar Mama's anchor and through the upper bulge to the top.
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