Waiting for the Sun
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 136 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Lisa & Dave Montgomery |
Page Views: | 3,328 total · 58/month |
Shared By: | Monty on Jul 25, 2019 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This is a fun route that is hard to grade as the crux is low and tricky. With the right beta, the crux isn't bad, but it might feel harder than the 12a's to the right otherwise.
Start on good holds and make big moves right then up to the roof. Crank through the roof with some trickery, and continue up to a huge ledge rest. Finish on a steep headwall/scoop.
Variation: It is possible to link the beginning of this route into the top of Light My Fire, but doing so takes up two of the more popular routes in the Dungeon. Hence, it is not advised to do this on a busy day.
10 Comments