Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Morin & Amanda Peterson
Page Views: 7,115 total · 102/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on May 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

148 Opinions

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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details


Begin at a block that doesn't appear to be very attached to the wall. Don't be afraid to reef on it though, the block has proven to be quite solid. Make bouldery moves up to a good jug, and get your first clip. Some may appreciate a stick clip, but the route has been climbed numerous times without one. Continue up slightly slabby terrain for two more clips then tackle the gently overhanging headwall. Move through the crux pulling on good jugs until the angle lessens once again and you find yourself at the anchors.


7 bolts.


rob bauer
Golden, CO
rob bauer   Golden, CO
This climb can be further identified by virtue of climbing in black rock the whole way; trending slightly left on fins, jugs, and alligator skin. You can see the anchors from the base. Lotta fun! Jun 1, 2013
Coury Ditch
Boulder, Colorado
Coury Ditch   Boulder, Colorado
Hey Mike (or whoever this may concern), the left bolt on the anchor for this route is suspect. The actual bolt wobbles, and the hanger spins a little as well.

I'm not too experienced with bolting rock. I am interested in learning the art, as I have been excited about developing in Staunton since I first heard the rock would be open to the public a couple years ago (Lion's Head!).

Email me at cmditch@gmail.com if you're so inclined. I'd love to meet you up there to help out/get beta on bolting and the route development ethic in Staunton.

Thanks! Jun 17, 2013
Mike Morin
Glen, NH
Mike Morin   Glen, NH
Hey Coury, I'll take a look at the anchor. Thanks.

Edit: On June 18th I checked the anchor on Reef on It. The bolts are fine, but the left bolt did need to be tightened. Thanks for the info, Coury, I was happy to have an excuse to go up to the park this evening.

I'm glad that you're psyched on the park, but I'm not the guy to mentor you on bolting, sorry. If you want to chat about the ethics of the area, I'm happy to. Jun 17, 2013
Coury Ditch
Boulder, Colorado
Coury Ditch   Boulder, Colorado
Thanks, Mike! Maybe see you up there sometime. I'll PM you about the ethic issues once I get closer to buying a Bosch/finding some sweet lines up there. Jun 25, 2013
Tombo   Boulder
Really fun! One of the best sport climbs of done of this grade, great rock, strange holds, good bolt placement, and a a few different ways it can be climbed. I didn't think there was a move harder than 5.9, but it really stacks up on you especially if you don't milk the rests. I'd give it a 10- for the consistency. Aug 25, 2013
Jeremy C
Golden, CO
Jeremy C   Golden, CO
The first route we did at Staunton. This route is SO good! I placed a medium-sized nut in a slot 10ft off the deck on the way up to the first bolt to avoid a possible broken ankle. A stick clip would definitely feel better. The route has such a fun variety of holds and stays pretty sustained for the most part. Great movements and humbling bolt placements on this beautiful climb. CLIMB THIS ROUTE! Oct 13, 2013
SeanMc123 McAndrew
Denver, CO
SeanMc123 McAndrew   Denver, CO
This is an excellent warm-up for the area. The first clip might seem tenuous, especially for shorter climbers. Begin in a controlled fashion if you're not stick clipping and you should be fine. Good intermediate ledges are available for shorter climbers to get up to the jug that allows a safe first bolt clip. Jun 10, 2016
L Erikson
Boulder, Colroado
L Erikson   Boulder, Colroado
The best easy climb at this crag, nice big holds, vertical to slab and SUPER fun. Jul 17, 2017
Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
Staying right of the bolt line in the middle keeps the route steeper and more sustained with excellent movement (10a) The LEFT, however, features 3 fun no hands rests: a juicy kneebar, a fat ledge, and a full on saddle sit on the biggest chickenhead ever keeping the line at 5.9+ Yeehaw! Jun 4, 2018