All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP > Old Mill Area > Sawmill Crag

Sawmill Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 2. Sawmill Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	* Archimedes Says We’re Hired S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	* Mean, Mean Pride S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	* The Big Drop S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	* The Live Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	* The Piercing S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	* Worth the Price of Admission S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Architype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Bunkhouse Barbie's Dream Castle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Cracked Pedestal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Draw Your Sword S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Four O'Clock World S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Old Growth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Ripping, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rosewood S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rough Sawn S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Run of the Mill S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Saw Monster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sawdusted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Straight Arrow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	9,216 ft	2,809 m
GPS:	39.52299, -105.38836 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

This is the main climbing area on the Southwest face. Some of the second pitches can be accessed from multiple first pitch routes and some second pitches are named independently from the first pitch routes.

Climbs starting from the ground (left to right) are: Bunkhouse Barbie's Dream Castle, Architype, Old Growth, Rough Sawn, Straight Arrow, Saw Monster, Four O'Clock World, The Ripping, Sawdusted, Draw Your Sword, Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch, Run of the Mill, Rosewood, and Cracked Pedestal (trad).

The independent second pitch routes are (L to R): The Piercing, The Big Drop, Archimedes Says We’re Hired, Worth the Price of Admission, Mean, Mean Pride, and The Live Edge. These are noted with an asterisk prior to the real names.

Getting There

From the intersection of Staunton Ranch and the Old Mill trails, hike up the Old Mill trail to reach the Bunkhouse, located just off the intersection of the Borderline Trail. Immediately on the west side of the Bunkhouse, follow the signed climber's access trail uphill for about 1 minute, and at the signed trail junction, take a right, and continue for 30 seconds to reach the Sawmill Crag. To reach the leftmost climbs at the Sawmill Wall, you will need to go behind a tree and up into a small, narrow corridor.

20 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sawmill Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● * The Live Edge Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 46 ● Bunkhouse Barbie's Dream Castle Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 88 ● Rosewood Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 20 ● Architype Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 11 ● Rough Sawn Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 15 ● Old Growth Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 18 ● Run of the Mill Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 16 ● Saw Monster Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 49 ● Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 12 ● Sawdusted Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 16 ● Draw Your Sword Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 15 ● The Ripping Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 21 ● Straight Arrow Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 8 ● Four O'Clock World Sport