All Locations > Colorado > S Platte > Staunton SP

Old Mill Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Old Mill Area

Black Creek Wall 6 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 38

Peach Palace 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Roughneck Area 15 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23

Sawmill Crag 2 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29

Wildcatter Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Elevation:	9,119 ft
GPS:	39.52255, -105.38738 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	78,068 total · 640/month
Shared By:	Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.

- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall

Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.

Seasonal Falcon closures in effect from March 15 - July 31. - Lion's Head (not pictured). - Roughneck Area. There are no closures at Staunton Rocks.

Description

Located on the N.E. corner of the park, this area hosts a couple of crags worth exploring. Please note that some of the formations in this area are off-limits due to their being in a closed, sensitive area. The sensitive area designation is in place to protect a rare species of plant called the Weber's Monkey flower.

Getting There

From the Lazy V Lot: Take the Lazy trail to the Service Road, then go left toward the Old Mill trail. Turn right on the Old Mill trail and follow it for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

If the Lazy V parking lot is full, you will need to park at the Meadow parking lot.

From the Meadow Lot (near the park entrance): Follow Staunton Ranch trail for approximately 2.2 miles to the intersection with Old Mill trail. Old Mill trail is hiker only, so leave your bike here if you brought it. Hike up Old Mill for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

90 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Old Mill Area Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Old Mill Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 15 ● Easy Peasy Sport Black Creek Wall > D. The Badlands
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 12 ● Wonkavator Sport 2 pitches Black Creek Wall > E Wonka's Alcove
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 9 ● Black Hole Sun Sport 2 pitches Black Creek Wall > D. The Badlands
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 38 ● Rosewood Sport Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 10 ● Thread the Needle Sport 2 pitches Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 8 ● Ruffian Arete Sport Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 5 ● Chop Suey Slab Sport Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 24 ● Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch Sport Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 19 ● Shrouded Face Sport Black Creek Wall > B. Howling Buttress
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 5 ● Iliad Trad Roughneck Area > Main Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 13 ● The Bends Sport Black Creek Wall > E Wonka's Alcove
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 10 ● The Singularity Sport Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 12 ● The Event Horizon Sport Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 7 ● Worm Hole Sport Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 5 ● White Dwarf Sport Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole