Elevation: 9,119 ft
GPS: 39.52255, -105.38738
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 78,068 total · 640/month
Shared By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Falcon Closures Details

Description

Located on the N.E. corner of the park, this area hosts a couple of crags worth exploring. Please note that some of the formations in this area are off-limits due to their being in a closed, sensitive area. The sensitive area designation is in place to protect a rare species of plant called the Weber's Monkey flower.

Getting There

From the Lazy V Lot: Take the Lazy trail to the Service Road, then go left toward the Old Mill trail.  Turn right on the Old Mill trail and follow it for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

If the Lazy V parking lot is full, you will need to park at the Meadow parking lot.

From the Meadow Lot (near the park entrance): Follow Staunton Ranch trail for approximately 2.2 miles to the intersection with Old Mill trail. Old Mill trail is hiker only, so leave your bike here if you brought it. Hike up Old Mill for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

90 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Old Mill Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Old Mill Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Easy Peasy
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 12
Wonkavator
Sport 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Black Hole Sun
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 38
Rosewood
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Thread the Needle
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Ruffian Arete
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Chop Suey Slab
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 24
Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Shrouded Face
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Iliad
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
The Bends
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 10
The Singularity
Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 12
The Event Horizon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 7
Worm Hole
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
White Dwarf
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Peasy Black Creek Wall > D. The Badlands
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wonkavator Black Creek Wall > E Wonka's Alcove
 12
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Black Hole Sun Black Creek Wall > D. The Badlands
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Rosewood Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
 38
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Thread the Needle Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Ruffian Arete Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Chop Suey Slab Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Studebaker, Makita, and Bosch Sawmill Crag > 2. Sawmill Wall
 24
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Shrouded Face Black Creek Wall > B. Howling Buttress
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Iliad Roughneck Area > Main Wall
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
The Bends Black Creek Wall > E Wonka's Alcove
 13
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Singularity Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 10
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Event Horizon Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 12
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
Worm Hole Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 7
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
White Dwarf Black Creek Wall > C. Black Hole
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Old Mill Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments