Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown by me
Page Views: 68,058 total · 319/month
Shared By: Steve Merschel on Jul 21, 2001 with updates from Bogdan P
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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From the Andrew's Glacier trail, you will see the Sharkstooth to the south. Hike up the Gash, which is the large boulderfield between you and the rock. As you get near, there will be a long fin of rock coming off the northeast ridge and heading, guess which direction...northeast. Climb to the east of that and scramble up on some large ledges for the first pitch.

P1. The first pitch can start in several places that are all about 5.4-5.6. I'd say we ran about 160 feet of rope on the first pitch. There are probably several places you could rig a belay.

P2. The second pitch was similar to the first 5.4-5.6 climbing, about the same distance and straight up the northeast ridge. Not a lot of zigzagging on this route. After some initial 5.5 climbing a long section of 5.easy climbing leads to a crux layback flake (<10ft). Belay on top of the flake. On this pitch the terrain gets easier if you stay left, but avoid the temptation and go straight up. You will eventually see the flake. Alternatively if you veer left a bit you can find a good belay stance on a dirt/grass covered lege below and left of the flake about 30-50 feet and save the flake for the next pitch.

P3. The third pitch goes 5.6 in the guidebook. Startup up a left-facing dihedral, and go more or less straight up, or possibly slightly right along a system of left facing dihedrals. The crux is just before the belay. 100-150'.

P4. Go up and slightly right along 5.easy terrain. Just before the end of the pitch there's a nice right slanting finger crack. Reach the first ledge/bench on the route and build the belay on the far side next to or in the wide crack. This pitch could likely be linked with the next with a 60m.

P5. Pitch 5 starts up a wide crack, but I hung out on the face for most this, because I think offwidths are about as fun as getting beaten with a rubber hose. The climbing is a lot easier on these last two pitches. Also, the route is completely obvious here as well. The 5th pitch ends on another, somewhat smaller ledge. More people on the Petit...if only they knew what they were missing over here.

P6. On the 6th pitch, there was little more loose rock and hollow holds, so be a little more cautious. From the top of #6, it's a very simple scramble to the summit. Ok, I was roped up, so what? But honestly, it's probably class 2 to the top from here.

The top has a great view of the surrounding area. Also, a little less comforting, look down through the boulders on the summit on the west side. I swear I saw daylight through there. Anyway, head southeast from the summit and down a little gully to rap rings. There are 3 50-60 meter raps to the top of the Gash here. The rap rings looked pretty good. Don't forget to bring a second rope or you'll be downclimbing. Also, there seems to be a lot of loose rock that gets knocked down when you toss your ropes on each rappel so be prepared to shout "ROCK!!" often to the people below and watch for more of it when you pull your ropes. That's it. Down the Gash to the trail. Hope you enjoy it. Also, I gave this a grade III, because it took us 13 hours, but we took a 2 mile detour by going to the south side first and then backtracking around to the north side. It's probably somewhere between a II and a III.

For an efficient party,
Base to summit time: 4 hours
Approach: 3 hrs
Descent from summit to base: 90 minutes.
Slow or inexperienced parties should increase these by 50%. Experienced parties should shoot for better time.


Standard rack.


Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
On the third pitch there is a nice 5.8, or 9ish?? variation. From the second belay, cruise around to the right, traversing for about 10 feet or so, to where you are more on the wall facing the approach path then on the left which is kinda the line of the route. In other words, you come out more onto the North?? face... Ok, the rock is sorta round, but, after you traverse around, just past the sight of your belayer, you should see a left facing dihedral kinda thing. Take this up through the interesting little overlap (undercling it) which would probably take a cam if your brought any (this climb easily gets sowed up with hexes, and nuts). Belay on a ledge a short ways after the overlap. From here, you can easily join the normal route(s). Granted, there is a ton of variations to go on this route, and you can just head up till your at the top, but, this (un-obvious) variation gives you some wicked exposure on the steeper North?? face... Jul 31, 2001
Overall, a great route. Only a few spots of loose rock keep this climb from getting three stars. Leaders should be prepared to run things out a bit and, especially on the first pitch, there can be some route finding issues. The crux felt harder than 5.6. Have fun. Stan Aug 29, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
If you happen to look up and see some slings hanging down on the first pitch, you are likely too far right. Done that, had to traverse left a bunch. Start can be tough to figure out 1st try. Mar 14, 2002
Andrew Speers
Evergreen, CO
Andrew Speers   Evergreen, CO
Great Climb! Wonderful exposure for a moderate climb. Warning: The little marmot farts will eat your food and your boots if you leave them laying around. They can unzip zippers! Have fun! Jun 1, 2002
did this route on 7-5-02. Great route, spots of 5.6 scattered along the first four pitches. The rock is somewhat broken and grabbing large but disconected blocks is common. A couple such blocks shifted and it was pretty alarming. Anyway, testing all such handholds before commiting to them could definately prevent an injury. Also, it's easy to knock off softball sized rocks on the ascent and the rap route, and they just go screaming down the route smashing into things harder and harder as they pick up speed. Great route, but loose holds and rockfall are major issues. Jul 5, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Descent comment: The 2nd rap described by Rossiter seemed to be gone 7/18/2. Saw the ledge. Recalled the spot. But no 2nd rap station.

We used the rap just below the S end of the summit block with 3 pins (one is blue), 180' (though the end of this is 3rd class with big exposure) to a big block with multiple slings and an old pin. Here, we rapped 195' (past 2 less solid appearing rap slings) to a rap station on the R side of the gully with a pin, chockstone, and a Wild Country Rock. From here, it was short rap down to the Gash that a Marmot easily scrambled up and past. Jul 20, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Marmots may ransack your packs if you leave them at the base. Hang your food, or bring it all with you.

This is a great route, although there is no single line and routefinding can be tricky. But I think it deserves classic status. Oct 31, 2002
The crux probably lies in a left-facing dihedral on the third pitch. This 15ft. section should be easily recognizable with the labored breathing and the two fixed nuts that were there as of late August 2002.

The last pitch is easy but memorable...truly spectacular.

Check those rappel pins before you weight them. Albert Ellingwood himself may have bashed those in.... May 26, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
I think that routefinding is the crux on this route! It certainly is not that obvious where to go. Rossiter's topo is useful but we still weren't sure we were in the right place. Don't get too stressed out if what you see doesn't match the description - there are many variations possible. May 27, 2003
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
The route was good because of the cool exposure but personally, I felt the rock quality was poor. There was loose stuff everywhere. Not to mention the lichen and moss. There is a distinct possibility that we were slightly off route on some of the pitches. As far as the descent, we made 3 raps off of sharkstooth, then 4 more in the East Gully, then headed over to the south face of the petit where we located our first rap station. The 2d rap station that we found, our 60m rope fell about 30' short of the next rap. My partner rigged another station with some red webbing and green cord so that a 60m rope will now suffice. Overall, the climbing was fun. The gorgeous approach is very moderate except the scree to the base of the climb. We got a late start and thankfully, the weather was perfect from sun-up and beyond. But, because of our late start and getting lost on the descent, we missed the last bus!!!! Hiking the road back was soooooo annoying! Every time we saw a reflector on the barrels along the road, we'd have false hopes that we'd soon see a sign for the parking lot. Jul 13, 2004
Can the descent be done comfortably with one rope? Jul 30, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Descent with 1 rope? True, I've done it a few times that way. Odds are, 1 rope is better than 2 most of the way, as you will have it tied to your back, not be on rap. That said, there are some technical moves and some loose rock, and some will be more comfortable rapping off. I think 1 rope should be just fine for this, if you are cautious and watchful- there are plent of anchors or anchor opportunities in the notct, just take a little extra webbing, which you might want for replacing existing ones anyway. Worst that can happen is you lose 2 nuts and some webbing if you put in an extra station somewhere- and that's what, $18? Heck, I'd risk that not to carry the extra rope.

Then again... should you climb alpine with a single rope? Depends on you and your skill level, but in any case it is a separate question to consider. Jul 30, 2004
Fort Collins, CO
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
The position and exposure on this route are indeed aesthetic, but the shattered nature of the rock means lots of loose stuff. Jun 20, 2005
My partner pulled out the blue pin at the first rappel station with just a little tug, that kinda sketched us out...we pounded it back in...but [don't] trust that pin. On the left somebody has slung a small chockstone as a back up, I pulled on that with some force and the chock snapped in half...I [wouldn't] trust whats left of that either. We [decided] to build our own chockstone as a back up so we slung a large chock in the wide crack on the right with webbing, still seems kinda marginal...so rapping from here is basically putting most of all your faith into those two old rusted pins, which seem pretty strong, but they are certainly old. If any of this makes you feel uncomfortable be prepared to deal with it. The 2nd and 3rd stations seemed bomber to us. Jul 31, 2005
My partner and I attempted to climb this ridge on 8/17/05, but we were unfortunately chased off by storms that arrived earlier than expected. In order to get off the rock, we had to rap the route leaving gear behind as we did. If anyone finds this gear please e-mail me, nduncan@purdue.edu, I am willing to reward anyone returning this lost gear as well.

Gear Lost:We started under the fixed rap slings (a red and a super faded orange). About half a rope length above the slings there should be a #2 and a #3 C4 Camalot with a 4 foot red and white runner connecting them. Another half rope length up there should be a 3 piece anchor with a red and pink tricam and a #1 C4 Camalot. Above this is the crux, and where I bailed off a fixed Alien (or Alien look-alike). Above the anchor and below the fixed Alien we lost a #.75 Camalot (not C4) a #0 and #1 TCU. Also lost but not as important are #s 2, 4, and 7 Wallnuts.

Anything returned is appreciated.

Noah Duncan Aug 18, 2005
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
If you are going to take one rope, take a 70m. It seems to be the perfect length on all of the raps. Jun 14, 2006
Andy Leach
Denver, CO
Andy Leach   Denver, CO
I climbed The Sharkstooth's Northeast Ridge on July 3, 2006.

Trip Report: leachfam.com/securearea/1st…
Photos: leachfam.com/securearea/sub…
Movie: leachfam.com/securearea/1mo… Jul 6, 2006
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
Great route, on superb stone, worth the grueling approach, if you have great weather like we did..a blue bird day. We set up a bivy down in the gash and were right behind a CMS guided party of three the next morning at our 6:45 start. However, Roy Leggett did an outstanding job of guiding his clients, and we never waited long and enjoyed their company.

This route has excellent position and has good, sustained climbing at the grade (5.5 & 6) the entire way. The crux was probably a short layback off a flake on P2. There is loose rock, but generally solid. In the crack 10' off the ground on the last roped pitch, beware of a large, oblong stone. It came off when I touched it and was in my lap. I was able to settle it back where it had been, only because I had a good stance, or I would be on crutches right now.

I would do this route again tomorrow under similiar conditions...real nice climb. Jul 16, 2006
Kevin Craig
Kevin Craig  
Doesn't get much better than this. Stellar alpine granite, awesome position, heinous approach/descent - Alpine! Brilliant! Thank you! We seem to have followed Rossiter's topo and pitch description pretty closely and felt the crux was a small roof with a crack just above the "inset" that Rossiter describes on P2. We started just left of the R-facing dihedral to the left of the route drawn in the beta photo. This leads past a rather large, old piton and up to a good belay ledge right below the inset. Done this way, P3 is definitely not the crux and climbs the left side of a left-facing flake system. The crack moves on P2 felt pretty close to the difficulty of the Bastille Crack (if only for a few moves), so I'd give the roue a 5.7 (minus?). The pro can be run out in spots (esp. P5), but the climbing is usually easy in those spots. Sep 14, 2006
Boulder, CO
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
My partner and I thought we'd save time going up the gully just below the route, BAD IDEA! It's loose as hell, and there's no easy way up it. We wasted a good 30 minutes trying to find a way up it before we gave up and practically slid down again. Jul 26, 2007
Frederic Regis  
First pitch was very wet and not that fun on June 29th, 2009 (too shaky for me). All the other pitches were mostly all dry and very fun.

We used crampons in the morning to get to the first pitch but the snow is very soft in the afternoon. Still lots of snow up there which makes for great glissading at the end of the day! Jun 29, 2009
Dana Prosser
Dana Prosser   Boulder
Has anyone been up to the NE ridge recently?-wonder if any more of the snow has melted with all this warm weather... are crampons necessary? Jul 9, 2009
Laura Pyle
Evergreen, CO
Laura Pyle   Evergreen, CO
As of July 19, crampons are not necessary for the approach. There are several large snowfields to cross and the snow is pretty hard in early morning, but we managed to do it in running shoes. Wonderful route - some loose rock of course, but generally good quality, and diverse, aesthetic climbing. In my opinion, better than the standard route on the Petit. Jul 19, 2009
Jack C Swift
Evergreen, CO
Jack C Swift   Evergreen, CO
Can someone please describe the best place to bivy in the Gash? Last year my partner and I slept under a large boulder (barely enough room head to foot for two) just off of the trail before you take a left, through the boulder field, toward the Sharkstooth. Aug 17, 2009
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
As of 8/20/2009 you could have definitely rapped off good stations with a single 70m. We carried leaver slings/nuts but it wasn't necessary. The normal rap stations are in good shape. Aug 21, 2009
Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
This was a great route. The route is a ridge route, despite the pictures here making it look more like a face. It starts out broad and narrows. Just head straight up from the start following fun features, don't trend left or right, routefinding seemed trivial. Stick to the ridge proper on the final pitch for some great exposure. The bivy sights in the Gash are amoung very large boulders just before you reach the main headwall cliff. Sep 8, 2009
Daniel Worley
Big South Fork, TN
Daniel Worley   Big South Fork, TN
Just wondering if I need to get a permit to bivy near the Sharkstooth. Sep 19, 2009
Jay Eggleston
Jay Eggleston   Denver
Yes, you need a permit to bivy anywhere in RMNP. Sep 19, 2009
Daniel Worley
Big South Fork, TN
Daniel Worley   Big South Fork, TN
I need to know the best bivy spots for the Northeast Ridge on the Sharkstooth. I know that it is going to be very cold, but a friend and I have put together a trip up the route the first weekend of October. Sep 25, 2009
Casey Flynn
Boulder, CO
Casey Flynn   Boulder, CO
As of June 23rd, one single 60m rope was NOT enough to do the raps. The first and third raps are fine with a single 60m. The second single rope rap deposits you on a a little ledge. Some exposed 4th class down climbing will bring you to a slung boulder with two biners on it. I left that stuff behind on June 23rd and now the route can be rapped with a single 60m. It would be best if someone brought a section of long cordelette and backed up my slings, if they could. Jul 9, 2010
Carl Dowdy
Golden, CO
Carl Dowdy   Golden, CO
Great route. Reached the top in 3 pitches with a 70m. The first and last pitch really use the full rope, and the middle one comes close. Only a few spots were a little sketch with approach shoes. Bring your nuts. Oct 4, 2010
Estes Park, CO
Igneous   Estes Park, CO
Climbed this on August 8, 2011 and had an awesome time. This was my first alpine route, and I would definitely recommend it.

It bears repeating to be careful of loose rock!

The best bivy spots are located in a flat(ish) spot about a quarter mile into The Gash after leaving the main trail. Look for a huge boulder, and you will find several good spots scattered around it.

We did the rappel with a 60 meter rope and it worked alright, but I would recommend bringing some extra webbing. I had to build my own rap station after the second rappel. Aug 22, 2011
Nick Venechuk
Golden, CO
Nick Venechuk   Golden, CO
Not much to add about the actual route, although it is excellent, or rock quality (yes there's some loose stuff; it's an alpine route). Some planning comments though: it took us three hours to the base of the route, moving at a quick but sustainable pace, and four hours from the base to the summit. The rappels can be done with a single 70m rope. Aug 22, 2011
Golden, CO
ErikaNW   Golden, CO
Super fun route. With the non existent snowpack this year the boulder field was pretty heinous with some interesting scrambling to clear the grassy rock band ledges. So basically it took us 2 hrs to hike the first 4 1/2 miles and 2 hrs to cover the last mile of boulders - not fun! Something to keep in mind for planning on a super dry year. Jul 16, 2012
Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO
Jeremy Bauman   Lakewood, CO
My Blog

Climbed yesterday in 12.5 h c2c. Left the trail head at 3 (we had to drive back to Texas that day) and started climbing a few minutes before 7. We had a quick pace until we reached the gash and got off route in the darkness causing our scramble up the talus to be unnecessarily brutal.

At the end of the first rope stretching pitch I had ventured too far to the right causing us to have to do a 30m traverse up and left to gain the standard route. Try to tend left at the end of the first pitch to avoid this nuisance. Overall, however route finding is very easy on this climb as long as you have a decent since of where you're going.

We continued up on beautiful granite and spectacular exposure to the summit about 3:15 after we started the first pitch. We spent 45 min on top taking pictures and enjoying the breathtaking views of RMNP.

About the rappel:
We easily located the first rap anchor which consists of about 3 old pitons and 2 nuts. The webbing connecting all these pieces looks a bit old so we left another sling on one of the pitons and called it good.

A 57m rap takes to the next anchor which consists of a slung block (and a piton or nut I can't remember which) Though the block looks a bit smaller than we would have liked, it is wedged deeply behind a huge chunk of the cliff and seemed pretty darn secure.

Another 60m rap brings you to a large ledge where you can scramble over to the next anchor on the climbers right side of the gully. This anchor consists of some pitons and a nut and seemed pretty good though the webbing looked like it could use replacing.

From here, a 29m rappel will bring you nicely to the top of the Gash.

Also, the marmots here are vicious vermon. They ate most of the cork off our trekking poles and nibbled a bit on my guide tennis (they carried one about 15 ft away from where I had placed it. Jul 18, 2012
The climbing on The Sharkstooth is really good and should be on your RMNP to-do list. For what it's worth, I would recommend being comfortable on 5.7 terrain as there are a few moves I found to be stiff for the 5.6 rating.

Went up on 8/5. On the way down, we cleaned up the rap stations a bit. We backed up webbing at the first station (the three pins looked good, the nuts are no longer there). The second section looked good. We also backed up the third station (nut, chockstone, and pin looked good). Note that the third rap station is a bit hard to see (the cord blends into the rock). It's a full 60 meters down from the 2nd station and then the 3rd rap station is to the rappeller's right (towards the NE Ridge). Didn't check the intermediate stations for single-rope raps. Aug 6, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
You must do this climb. Once. The approach via vast boulderfields of dishwashers and microwaves will keep you from going back, but ... the actual climb was just about everything you could ask from alpine. Exposed, altitude, length, and great scenery. Real moves for a 5.6. The huge bivy boulder is past the last trees - past the first smooth, partial, cliff band by 100 yds or so, and there is water near it. Route-finding was easy, pro was good. This thing was designed to be climbed. Aug 7, 2012
The approach and descent are not nearly as bad as I was expecting. Not sure how you could get off route on the approach unless you didn't scramble up around to the left to get to the grassy ledge where the first pitch starts and instead went up the snow apron at the base. We had 2x60m ropes and used both for one of the raps - in retrospect, the second rope was not essential. Great route. Aug 7, 2012
The Blueprint Part Dank
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
I found the route to be no harder than 5.6. However, I wouldn't recommend it to the average 5.6 trad leader simply because the gear at the anchors was anything but straightforward. It took a lot of creativity to make bomb proof belays. A #4 C4 would have been nice for the belay at the top of P3. Jun 24, 2013
Detroit, MI
A0hero   Detroit, MI

Does anyone know if this large, right-facing dihedral (green) is part of the standard Northeast Ridge route? It kinda matches the P3 description, but I thought it felt much harder than 5.6 when I climbed it. Just curious. Jun 30, 2013
Erie, PA
AndrewFH   Erie, PA
Did this route late August of 2013. Be cautious of what you're pulling on as there is some loose stuff, but you can always find a bomber alternative. Keep in mind this was rated a 5.6 when 5.9 was the hardest, it did feel a bit stiff and more like 5.7 on a few spots. Really great route and fun/ easy/ exposed climbing on the last 2 pitches. We had a party of 3 with 2 ropes, but I would recommend only bringing one rope 60-70m for the rap for parties of 2 as there were numerous stations on the way down. Aug 31, 2013
Eddie F
Edwards, CO
Eddie F   Edwards, CO
The dihedral to climber's right on pitch 3 felt more like 5.7, everything else was solid 5.6 on great rock. Route finding and anchors were pretty straightforward, just follow the ridge and climb what looks good, and belay on awesome ledges. The rappels were pretty straightforward (we had a 60m and a 60m pull cord that we tagged), and the anchors held me and my partner no problem. However, the pin rings at the first rap did not inspire too much confidence, and the third/last rap... the way the slings are equalized almost all of the weight is on the chockstone. We did it in 6 pitches, never placed anything bigger than a #3, and were c2c in 11 hours without much rush. Have fun, it's a great route. Jun 4, 2014
Steve Jones  
Mellow route & beautiful summit with a non-trivial approach. We loved the pristine bivy at the obvious cliff below the Tooth. Please keep it clean. Good water there and flat rock under the stars and satellites.

You don't need rps or a #4 Camalot. The wide crack has chockstones to tie off. There are a number of small fixed nuts in parallel cracks indicating that Lowe Balls could be helpful. Never placed so many offset Aliens.

For us, it was less about the technical climbing more about the full experience of this rugged and beautiful place. 3 days c2c. Aug 15, 2014
The High Country
Cocanower   The High Country
For those interested in a ropeless ascent, the east gully (5.4) could be easily downclimbed. Watch for rocks comin' from above Aug 24, 2014
Chris Orwat
Arvada, CO
Chris Orwat   Arvada, CO
On the approach we reached the Gash in 1hr 40min. Approach to the base of the climb was 50min. Almost no snow on the approach. Climb took us 3hr 30min. This route is definitely doable in 3 pitches with a 70m rope. Our route took us over a couple 5.7 crux sections, but most of the route felt 5.6. Last pitch goes 5.3 to 5.4. Brought a complete rack up to #3 Camalot (doubled on #0.75, #1 and #2), set of nuts and couple large hexes. The webbing in the rappel anchors were in good shape as of 9/2/14. On the first rappel 70m rope is enough to reach the ledge. The second rap had a few intermediate rappel stations, which are needed with a single 70m rope. Twin 60s would reach. The third rappel 70m is plenty to reach. Time was 9hr 50min c2c. Overall amazing climb and superb alpine rock. Have fun!

Sep 4, 2014
John Ryan
Poncha Springs, CO
John Ryan   Poncha Springs, CO
The climb was really fun - quite mellow for the grade. Gear is great, especially nuts. As others have said, the approach is brutal. There were lots of bail anchors throughout the first three pitches.

The rap anchors seem to constantly change looking at all the comments. On 9/1/14, the first rappel anchor consisted only of the 3 old pitons and one rap ring, but by 9/2/14 there is a fourth piece and a locker. To get to the first rap station - scramble down and right into the gully. It's at a logical spot - where the cliff drops off. There is a slung boulder as you start to downclimb into the gully that you can clip to stay on belay to the rappel station - clip it or don't fall. We rapped on double 70m ropes, got down in two rappels with about 30 feet of 3rd/4th class downclimbing at the bottom. Lots of rap stations down the gully. Sep 4, 2014
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
The route is in good shape as of 9.28.14. This is a fine alpine route with decent rock, good exposure, and adequate pro. The approach is a bit tedious but no worse than most RMNP alpine routes. The first pitch is somewhat dirty, but the upper pitches are enjoyable, mid-5th class climbing with buckets and jams that appear exactly when you need them. A good figure for reasonably fit climbers is about 10 hours car-to-car, with 3-4 hours on the route itself.

I suggest bringing extra small gear (<#1 Camalot) as the protectable features on most of the route are somewhat compact. Be cautious about nut placements as the cracks are mostly irregular.

Test your holds--there are a lot of size-large flakes, chocks, etc. that look more solid than they really are. Sep 28, 2014
LuisC   Boulder
This route is fantastic!
If you make sure you start P2 right below the inset where there's a red sling and climb straight up, you'll then climb P3 as described in the guidebook (i.e. starting on a L-facing dihedral). P3 was our favorite pitch of the whole climb.
With 60m ropes and a bit of help from your belayer, it's possible (and worth it) to link P3 and P4. Sep 8, 2015
The traditional rappel route seems to have changed. As of 6/4/16, the second station is no longer 150' right on grassy ledge.

Rap 1: 3 fixed pins w/backup stopper; ~140' to grassy ledge.

Rap 2: ~40' below and rappeller's left of landing from rap 1, fixed pin with slung block; ~180' down gully to another ledge. Look for station 3 on rappeler's right.

Rap 3: Fixed pin, stopper, chockstone in right wall of gully; ~75' to top of East Col.

Descending from here was on steep snow with lots of wet-slide activity. Jun 7, 2016
Dan Hickstein
  5.6 PG13
Dan Hickstein  
  5.6 PG13
This route was lots of fun! The last pitch is awesomely exposed!

The rappel info from J-K seems about right. We completed it with one 70m (and it could be completed with one 60m) like this:

Rap 1: in the alcove very near the summit: 3 fixed pins (2 ancient ring-angles!) and a stopper. Rap 100' to a terraced grassy ledge. Watch your ends!

Walk 50' down the hill on grassy ledges (Class 2), and find a slung block and fixed pin anchor.

Rap 2a: rap 100' to an intermediate rappel station consisting of a slung horn (10' skier's right of plumb line). This station could use a backup nut and sling.

Rap 2b: rap 70' to sloping ledge. Walk 20' skier's left to the fixed-pin + stopper + chockstone anchor.

Rap 3: rap 75' to the East Col.

If you only bring one rope, it's a good idea to bring extra webbing + rap rings, since the rappel anchor seem to change frequently (judging from the comments here).

From the col, we scrambled down the rock on skier's left on the gully. Eventually, we could go no further due to cliffs + snow, so we rappelled 100' from a slung block across the snow and back to the base. You can get a good look at this last portion of the descent from the base of the climb. Jun 20, 2016
Ryan Nevius
Chiang Mai, TH
Ryan Nevius   Chiang Mai, TH
I climbed this a week ago with a 70m and would NOT recommend rapping on a single 70 (and definitely not a single 60m). While it is possible to do so with a bunch of bail gear and webbing (there are places to build rap stations everywhere), it's not worth the headache. It's apparent that the rap stations change frequently. Jun 20, 2016
Dan's descent beta worked for us on 7/10/16. Climbed on a single 70m. Jul 11, 2016
skye bacus
Lakewood, CO
skye bacus   Lakewood, CO
Climbed this yesterday in 5 pitches (wanted to link more but lots of parties on the route). Lots of parties on the "direct start" so we started in a R-facing dihedral to the right (which based on some of the photos here... looks like the real direct start).

P1. R-facing dihedral and belay on a great ledge. P2 was a little spicier than 5.6-- went up a short, R-facing dihedral with a nice finger crack. Some fun, thin face moves. Back to easier 5.fun. Traversed left to join the "standard route" on some knobs and set a belay right underneath a juggy roof on a L-facing dihedral.

Was able to pass 2 other parties by starting this way and climbing quickly. If there are a lot of other groups, just pick a start and go! Descent with a 70m rope was super easy. Some downclimbing on grassy ledges. Leave the #4 Camalot at home. Yellow, orange, and red Metolius mastercams were the pieces of the day! Jul 11, 2016
George Perkins
Boulder, Colorado
George Perkins   Boulder, Colorado
My partner and I climbed the northeast ridge yesterday 6/21 and found a solar charger. It is in good condition, and it looked as if it fell off someone's pack....

If you lost a solar charger at Sharkstooth, DM me and describe what brand and model it is, and I can meet you to return it. Jun 22, 2017
Alex M
Denver, CO
Alex M   Denver, CO
2 ropes are required for this rappel. We removed slung block "anchor" midway through the 2nd and 3rd rap, (see Dan's beta Rap 2a) which looks like it was put there by someone who only had one rope. The webbing was about to slide right over the top of the horn. Jul 16, 2017
Jon Oulton
Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
Jon Oulton   Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
As of 6/23/18, the East Gully can be rapped with a single 70m rope. While there are some rusty pitons, all the rap stations looked good overall. Jun 25, 2018
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
Beautiful area, amazing formation, exposure. mostly good rock. The 2nd and 3rd pitches had the most consistent quality moves and rock. This thing ate nuts, many places to protect with passive pro. Right before the top on the last pitch, right after a small crack there is a large rock that is loose, be wary of it. Rapped with 2 60ms, good rap stations. Somebody updated all the webbing recently. Aug 27, 2018
Jeff N
Broomfield, CO
Jeff N   Broomfield, CO
Beautiful climb! The climb was complicated a little by a bit of snow on the route and cold temps. The entire route was 5.6 or less except a couple of moves over a mini-roof on P2 which felt more like 5.7, and the crux of the route IMO. Agree that P2 & P3 have the most consistent at-grade climbing. As for pro, aside from comments already made, I found tricams to come in handy on a couple of the horizontal cracks.

Pitches 3 & 4 can be easily combined with a 60m rope with minimal rope drag. Recommend setting up your anchor about 8 ft below and on the left side of the big bench at the top of P4. There is a nice, little, flat ledge you can sit on with a great crack above to put your anchor pieces in. This keeps you from having to pull the rope up over the edge of the bench and makes communication with your second easier. Belaying for P5 from this location worked fine too - just flip around on the ledge and sit facing the other direction with a fairly clean rope line to P5.

Important note on the approach:
We did the approach in the dark, and paying careful attention, took the correct turn off for Andrew's Glacier Trail, but later missed a key sharp left hand turn. After you make the right hand turn onto Andrew's Glacier Trail (immediately after the stream crossing - the trail starts up along a rock slab on the bank of the stream), you need to take a sharp left at the sign for Andrew's Creek camp area (sign says "Andrew's Creek Stoves Only"). The sharp left turn was less than about 1/4 mile from the start of the trail. If you continue straight on the trail at this point, you will go into a camp area, and the trail gradually fades away if you continue on past the campsites. In the dark, we could not see the sharp left, wandered around for a bit, and finally had to wait for first light. If you get to the campsites, you have left the main trail and need to go back to the sign and make a hard right to head up to The Gash. Sep 27, 2018
TJ B   Denver
I climbed with Jeff N. His comments are spot on. Also, I'll add that the three rappel stations on the east side are still good to go for double 60m rope rappels. The third rap station is on the skier's left side on the rock wall. Took a second to find. Sep 29, 2018