Avg: 3.7 from 67 votes
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Paul Van Betten, Richard Harrison, and Sal Mamusia, 1983|
|Page Views:||15,323 total · 132/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Sep 12, 2008|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionWOW! This is one of the best routes in Red Rock canyon. With varied climbing on very good rock this route mixes in some of the best Red Rock has to offer. A must do.
Pitch 1: Begin by heading up slabby face holds. Look for a line of holds leading right to the obvious flake. The traverse right to the flake is 5.9 and has no protection. Once you gain the flake good gear is had. Follow the system of flakes up and right. After a wider section of the flake traverse directly right on a finger/hand rail(top of a flake). This is the crux. Continue up and left to the fixed anchor. 5.10a, 135ft.
Pitch 2: Climb left off the belay to a fixed(and pretty good) Knifeblade. Climb past this and into the left facing corner with a stem box on the left forming a channel. Continue up this channel, where you will encounter the crux. Follow the crack system up until you reach the fixed anchor. 5.10a/b, 125ft.
Pitch 3: Climb up the left facing corner above. Liebacking and jamming will see you through. The rock on this pitch is incredible and the climbing is 5 stars. Belay at the fixed anchor on a sloping ledge. 5.10a, 100ft.
Pitch 4: Climb up and right into the corner. Climb the corner until you can step left to a perfect finger crack on the steep varnished wall. Do not step over to early it will be obvious. Climb the finger crack in perfect varnished rock.
At the top of the finger crack abit of face climbing will lead you up then back right into the corner and 2 drilled angles. Alternately you can continue up the corner. Supposedly this is a bit easier, however there is a big white block you must climb around that is suspect. Another 5 star pitch. 5.10b, 100ft.
Pitch 5: The Offwidth. Continue climbing the left facing corner that has now become wide. Climb several crux's including a thin one guarding the belay. Stop at the fixed anchor. This is the end of the route. 5.10d, 100ft.
Descent: Rappel the route with 2 ropes, 1, 70M will not work.