Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Prehmus/Launer
Page Views: 2,074 total · 26/month
Shared By: Alan Prehmus on Jun 3, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Warning Access Issue: Falcon Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This left-side route starts up the thin crack at the right margin of the eyebrow under a big spruce tree. The undercling and layback to the right to get off the ground (10a). Move back left to get your feet on the slab. Pull the bulge (10+). The crack is not your only option. Above the bulge are several big rest stances. Climb the bomb-bay V slot, 11b. It has little for hands and virtually nothing to pull down on. It does not ease until you get your feet to the lip. Another 15 feet of moderate climbing leads to the anchor.

Defecting out of the slot to the arête on the left provides one easy move, but the finish from that angle is 11b too.

The direct start through the eyebrow roof on the thin crack line may be possible in the 5.12 range.

Location Suggest change

It is on the left side of the crag 20 feet right of Aerial Acrobatics.

Protection Suggest change

Protect the trad start, then clip 7 bolts through the bombay to a 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks. The gear is good low on the route, but placements disappear higher. Bring gear: 2.5 inches & less, with emphasis on small cams and a the full range of stoppers.

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