Trickster in Black
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 31 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Prehmus/Launer |
Page Views: | 2,074 total · 26/month |
Shared By: | Alan Prehmus on Jun 3, 2018 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Falcon Closures
Details
Seasonal Falcon Closures in effect from March 15 - July 31.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
Description
This left-side route starts up the thin crack at the right margin of the eyebrow under a big spruce tree. The undercling and layback to the right to get off the ground (10a). Move back left to get your feet on the slab. Pull the bulge (10+). The crack is not your only option. Above the bulge are several big rest stances. Climb the bomb-bay V slot, 11b. It has little for hands and virtually nothing to pull down on. It does not ease until you get your feet to the lip. Another 15 feet of moderate climbing leads to the anchor.
Defecting out of the slot to the arête on the left provides one easy move, but the finish from that angle is 11b too.
The direct start through the eyebrow roof on the thin crack line may be possible in the 5.12 range.
Defecting out of the slot to the arête on the left provides one easy move, but the finish from that angle is 11b too.
The direct start through the eyebrow roof on the thin crack line may be possible in the 5.12 range.
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