Trickster in Black
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.5026, -105.36836 |
| FA: | Prehmus/Launer |
| Page Views: | 2,144 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Prehmus on Jun 3, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
- Lion's Head
- Roughneck Area
- Wildcatter Wall
Note that the annual closures of the Park View Dome, The Ranch Hand, Black Creek Wall, and Sawmill Crag have been permanently lifted. These cliffs will continue to be monitored, but will only close if a new nest is spotted.
The closure of Raven will be in effect starting Sept. 10 as hand crews will begin felling trees in the southern area of the work zone.
Mason Creek Trail will remain open until Sept. 29th at which time helicopters should begin flying trees out down to the meadow lot area
Starting Sept. 29, closure of the Mason Creek Trail will force the closures of the Dines and Reynolds Wall areas 7 days a week (per ryan laird).
The Mason Creek Trail will be closed and a helicopter will be assisting the mitigation operations.
Description
This left-side route starts up the thin crack at the right margin of the eyebrow under a big spruce tree. The undercling and layback to the right to get off the ground (10a). Move back left to get your feet on the slab. Pull the bulge (10+). The crack is not your only option. Above the bulge are several big rest stances. Climb the bomb-bay V slot, 11b. It has little for hands and virtually nothing to pull down on. It does not ease until you get your feet to the lip. Another 15 feet of moderate climbing leads to the anchor.
Defecting out of the slot to the arête on the left provides one easy move, but the finish from that angle is 11b too.
The direct start through the eyebrow roof on the thin crack line may be possible in the 5.12 range.




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