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Routes in Cadillac Crag

Auburn Court T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Auburn Lane T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Face S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Brand New Cadillac S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bro'd Less Traveled, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Deviant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Easy Street T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Emission Control T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Escalade T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Evening Stroll T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flash Cadillac TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Ghetto Cruiser T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gonzo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Highway Of Ra T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Highway of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ichiban Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Land of Ra T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Let it Vee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Trundler T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moonlight Drive T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shallow Dihedral T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Stargate T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trail of Tears S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twistoflex T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Untitled, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
V3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (4)
FA: David Houston & Kirk Petersen 1986
Page Views: 1,001 total, 5/month
Shared By: David Hous on Feb 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route ascends the 3rd fin from the left to the 1st belay on Highway of Diamonds. Follow the left of two aretes off the ground to the roof. Step onto the left (north) face of the arete and up the short crack. Tiptoe up the thin face crux moves past two bolts and on up to the belay. Rossiter gave this an S which is probably due to my height which led me to space the bolts out pretty far at the crux. Next time I go up there I'll hang a short chain on the last bolt for easy clippage.

Protection

Two bolts on the lower arete, two bolts on the upper face, a med-large stopper handy for the crack at the transition

Photos

Scott Bennett  
5.11b
Great route! Similar in style, difficulty, quality, and excitement to Aerospace. I don't think it deserves an "R" rating, although a fall getting to the third bolt could suck (you wouldn't deck, but the slabby arete below could make things awkward). The gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt is bomber, I used a purple Camalot.
I did the whole thing as one pitch, up to the bolts atop the fin, which was great.
Rack: Single set of cams to #1 Camalot, some med/lg stoppers, a few long slings.

-Scott Oct 19, 2009
adam brink
Boulder, CO
 
adam brink   Boulder, CO
 
I got on this route yesterday (9/6/02) and found it to be an Eldorado gem. It has masterful slab climbing with a stunning postion. Though the crux is runout that only made it better. Please, don't add any bolts to this line. It is perfect as it is. An extra bolt would only cheapen an ascent. Sep 8, 2002
David Hous
Boulder, Colorado
 
David Hous   Boulder, Colorado
 
I left a wire draw on the third bolt last weekend, but it still seems run out to me now. I guess 16 years and 30 pounds does make a difference. I used a large stopper in the crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts which looked pretty solid. I'd have no objection if someone wanted to add a bolt. Aug 26, 2002