Lee Gitlin > Comments

Sep 26, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Green Adjective Gully Gordon's Hangover 5.9+ ● Fabulous route. We did it as one pitch, although rope drag can be an issue. The route starts out easy, th… View Comment
Sep 23, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Altered States Gully Altered States 5.9 R ● The first place for pro is a long way off the ground, then placements become more plentiful ... until the c… View Comment
Sep 4, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Reservoir Ridge Reservoir Ridge 5.4 ● We did pitch two today, which was relatively enjoyable. There is a fixed piton at belay station #1 and als… View Comment
Sep 3, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Salt Lake Slips Entre Nous 5.8 ● It is easy to hang a toprope here by first climbing Italian Arete, then traversing a few feet to lookers ri… View Comment
Sep 3, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Salt Lake Slips Roll the Bones 5.6 ● Completely different climbing than Italian Arete. Roll the bones is an easy face climb, with much smaller… View Comment
Sep 3, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Reservoir Ridge Reservoir Ridge 5.4 ● Took my daughter here for her first-ever climbing experience. Super easy climbing, barely above 4th class.… View Comment
Aug 31, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Beckey's Wall Area Beckey's Wall 5.7 ● P1 is fairly short and low angled, although the hand jams seemed shallower than they appear at first glance… View Comment
Aug 31, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress Beckey's Wall Area ● Ahhh ... nothing quite like a 15-foot 5th class boulder problem, followed by a traverse with consequences -… View Comment
Aug 31, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Dead Snag Steorts' Ridge 5.6 ● Fairly straightforward climbing on pitches 1 and 2, although each seems to have crux moves. The cruxes pro… View Comment
Aug 31, 2006 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Challenge Buttress > E Face Sweet and Low 5.5 ● Okay, fair enough. Reclimbed this route, and several other 5.6-5.7's and I must revise my rating. 5.5 see… View Comment
Nov 9, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > JHCOB Wall Outside Corner 5.7 ● Pitches 1 and 2 can be run together with a 60 meter rope, although rope drag may become an issue. P1 start… View Comment
Sep 19, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > S Face Daffy's Shaft 5.10a R ● Placing pro on this route can lead to a drag-inducing zig-zag, so be sure to have runners at the ready. Th… View Comment
Sep 19, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Black Peeler Bu… > S Face Duck A L'Orange 5.8 R ● There is a dirty crack down low, left of the first bolt. You might want to get some pro into that crack, s… View Comment
Aug 16, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Penitentiary Wall Jack the Ripper 5.12a R ● Okay, Ken, I'll put this in simple terms, so you can understand it. The coffin zone means that if you fall… View Comment
Aug 15, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Penitentiary Wall Jack the Ripper 5.12a R ● The first chance to place pro on this route is right at the coffin zone. Climb it on toprope or be sure yo… View Comment
Aug 15, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Penitentiary Wall Climb and Punishment 5.9- ● This is a quality splitter. Start with finger locks, working hard for good feet. Be thankful for the jugs… View Comment
Aug 15, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Penitentiary Wall Possession 5.6 ● Nothing much to rave about here. Lots of places to rest or stem. 5.7 seems too generous. 5.6 is probably… View Comment
May 25, 2005 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island Six Appeal 5.7 ● It seems odd to say about a 5.6 route, but this one is hard for the grade, especially the first 3 bolts. A… View Comment
Oct 15, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Talk Buttress Baby Talk 5.5 ● This is what happens when someone gets a wild hair and wonders, "Ya think that dirty crack will take pro?"… View Comment
Oct 15, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area Schoolroom 5.6 ● Pitch #4 disqualifies this route from being a 3-star. It's an ugly squeeze chimney, with limited pro, foll… View Comment
Oct 15, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Gate Buttress > Schoolroom Area Schoolroom Direct Variation 5.7 R ● This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to travers… View Comment
Oct 7, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Talk Buttress Notalotatalk 5.8 ● The hardest move is getting off the ground, although you can protect the initial moves by placing a piece b… View Comment
Sep 30, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Waterfront, The Chickenhead Holiday 5.6 ● The first 8 feet are the most interesting sequence. This deep crack gobbles up as much big gear as you car… View Comment
Sep 30, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Plumb Line Gully Plumb Line 5.10a ● There are enough chicken heads down low to avoid shredding your fingertips, but the crux demanded an intere… View Comment
Sep 27, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Narcolepsy Area Dream Slate 5.10a ● Dream Slate is a good climb, worth the short hike up a boulderfield. In my book, all that keeps it from be… View Comment
Sep 24, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Narcolepsy Area Narcolepsy 5.8 R ● The climb itself isn't bad, some interesting movement and use of the arete/edges. But recommending that an… View Comment
Sep 16, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Dogwood Crag On the Skids 5.8 ● 5.8 sounds about right for this climb but DAMN it's hard to trust your feet! After bolt #2 the rock is not… View Comment
Sep 16, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Challenge Buttress > E Face Sweet and Low 5.5 ● The route is also a bit dirty toward the top, with a bush in the bolt line, which is why we gave it only on… View Comment
Aug 21, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Salt Lake Slips Salem's Lot 5.10b ● If you like bouldering problems at the gym, you'll love Salem's Lot. Lots of interesting body position req… View Comment
Aug 21, 2004 Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake Good Medicine Area ● Sigh.... So the secret is out now on what I consider to be the single best climbing crag out there. Ima… View Comment
Aug 21, 2004 Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake > Good Medicine Area Fire Water 5.7+ ● This would be a great first lead for someone, a real confidence builder. The 5.7 rating seems a bit dubiou… View Comment
Aug 21, 2004 Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake > Good Medicine Area Sun Dog 5.7 ● My climbing partner and I actually found some of the moves on this route to be more difficult than it's nei… View Comment
Aug 21, 2004 Northeast Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake > Good Medicine Area Peace Treaty 5.9 ● This is a solid 5.9 climb that you will feel good about. It has a roof to pull about halfway up. All of t… View Comment
Jul 14, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Challenge Buttress > E Face Coral Bells Arete 5.9 ● Coral Bells is a short, but interesting route. The first bolt is clipped easily enough, but pulling past i… View Comment
Jul 10, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch Parley's Canyon ● Parleys has a surprising number of good climbs in a small area. I prefered the Iron Curtain wall, with a v… View Comment
Jul 9, 2004 Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Parley's Canyon > Riptide Wall 'Lectric Granny 5.9+ ● "ROCK!" I shouted at my belayer -- probably five or six times enroute to the anchors. The effort turned in… View Comment

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Lee Gitlin > Comments

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