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Routes in Reservoir Ridge

Crack Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Errors of Our Ways S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodro's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Ran To Afghanistan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Iraq in the Back Attack S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reservoir Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Unknown Trad Line T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
War Clamor S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,926 total · 19/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 5, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Exposed ridge climbing that is easy and easy to protect. A must do for those practicing longer trad routes. The descent is kind of awkward... scrambling up and east. That is unless the new anchors on the east face will work for rappelling off.


Bring a normal rack. There are anchors along the ridge used for the east face now. Belay station 1 had 1 piton, as did belay station 2.


- No Photos -
Ian Quigley  
Worth doing! Probably best stop for P1 is a fat ledge ~10 feet above the bolted anchors for War Clamor - it's got two broken pitons in it and takes mid-sized nuts or small cams. Step around right to the east face and head to the bolted anchors for Crack Face (?) for P2, and then sprint past a piton and up the ridgeline to the anchors for I Ran to Afghanistan for P3, using those to get down. Super easy, super fun. Sep 19, 2016
Matthew Derrell Williams
Holladay, Utah
Matthew Derrell Williams   Holladay, Utah
First time climbing this route and not positive we followed the established line but here is a bit of what we did:

Pitch 1 - Super easy climbing on the west side of the ridge but fairly hard to protect on the upper half. The handful of bolts or pitons that may have existed previously seemed to have all been chopped which is probably fine given the ease of climbing. We stopped to belay at the "War Clamor" chains.

Pitch 2 - Wandered a bit left of those chains up on to a ledge which we went right around onto the east face and up to another ledge where you hit a wall. Traversed around this wall right, back onto the east facing wall and headed up above the chains that seemed to belong to "Crack Face" or "Error of our Ways". Got on the ledge above there to setup the pitch 2 anchor.

Skipped out on pitch 3 and rap'd from the chains maybe 10 feet below us. Jun 3, 2016
The route is a "classic". Don't take away from the hobnail predecessors just because it didn't give you a rush. :-) Aug 2, 2015
Like Brian, I've soloed this route a couple of times. I did again last night. The descent to the East, that I've always done, sucks.

I feel like it would probably be easier to downclimb the route itself than descend the gully to the east (just north of the East face climbs). Loose dirt, moss, and lots of mud in the gully/chimney, make this not fun.

Next time I'll either downclimb the route or downclimb the route partially back to one of the belay stations for the east face routes and rap. If you're climbing this route with a rope there is absolutely no reason not to simply climb back down to the belay anchor you pass and rap from there.

Agreed that it is mostly class 4. Significantly easier even than the 5.5 routes at Storm Mountain Island. Apr 23, 2008
West Valley, UT
mattjbudd   West Valley, UT
I really didn't enjoy this route at all. Maybe because I expected it to be a classic. I wouldn't do this route again, unless I was taking a 5 year old. Nov 7, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I solo this route from time to time. Seems like I always exit by down climbing to the west (working down corners and trending sort of towards the Transformer Wall area). Always seem to pick up a wad of bail slings enroute.

Great rock. Nice position. Easy off would be one of the rap anchors to the east if you didn't want to climb higher on the ridge. Sep 29, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  Easy 5th
Lee Gitlin  
  Easy 5th
We did pitch two today, which was relatively enjoyable. There is a fixed piton at belay station #1 and also a nice crack that took a number 5(?) metolius. The rap chains for the southernmost route on the Main Wall were within easy reach of belay station #2.

Pitch 2 actually has a 5.4 "crux," if there is such a thing, which is about the only time anything resembling technical climbing is required. Some exposure can be had by moving out onto the face.

Pitch 3 is really a 4th class arete scramble. I lost interest after about 75 feet at a small juniper tree. I downclimbed back to belay station #2, so am really not sure about the exit.

Do yourself a favor and bail after pitch 2. Use the rap anchors and lower off the east wall. Sep 4, 2006
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
WTF? Why are people putting bolts on these things? Resevoir Ridge has PLENTY of natural protection. It is a complete waste of bolts and effort. This climb probably holds little interest except for new leaders wanting practice placing pro, or (as Lee did) for taking children out for some easy trad climbing. Somebody PLEASE remove those bolts. I suggest giving one to Tyler and one to Tony, to be placed on any NEW routes that they wish! Sep 4, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  Easy 5th
Lee Gitlin  
  Easy 5th
Took my daughter here for her first-ever climbing experience. Super easy climbing, barely above 4th class. Good habits can be taught here (e.g. looking down at the feet, as hands can be used almost exclusively for balance.) We only did pitch one, on which there are two pitons and two bolts as fixed protection, followed by the anchor chains for the east facing wall. Comfortable leaders could leave the trad rack behind with all that fixed pro, but we chose to practice gear placements and removal.

All in all, a good route for teaching. It's maybe a two minute walk from parking, along the old dam, which terminates very close to the start of the route. One caveat: top roping pitch one will result in quite a bit of rope drag along the belay station ledge. Sep 3, 2006
MHanson   SLC, UT
If you want to cut the last pitch short the rap anchors for the last sport climb to the right will get you down easily. Jul 29, 2006

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