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Routes in Dogwood Crag

A Modest Man from Mandrake S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ain't no Party, Ain't no Disco T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Ballad of Bricks V1 5
Beck Beck TR V0 4
Cockroach Slip V2 5+
Cross-Eyed and Painless S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Drunken Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golemoly V1 5
Haven't A Clue S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hyper-Gamma Spaces T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I Think I'm Going Bald S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Launch V1 5
Life During Wartime T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lion of Zion, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Creatures T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Critters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Things S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
On the Skids S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quartzite Sans Stainless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandpaper Cloud V0 4
Slinga Tree T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stun the Hun V0 4
Take Me To The River S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Top-Rope Tough Guy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unforgiven S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown west of Mandrake S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown west of Take Me to the River T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Theron McNeely, 1990
Page Views: 2,777 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mason on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first bolted route on the west end of Dogwood, and is an excellent warmup route for doing MMFM further down the rock. Nice climb if you can manage to do it without the crowd.

The smooth/slimy surface (from water runoff when the water is high)on the first section is no indicator of the remainder of the climb, and the holds that are hard to see from the ground appear out of nowhere once you get closer to them and can see shadow.

I'd be more tempted to give this climb two stars if it weren't so crowded, but I'd definitely recommend climbing it (especially for the reason above).

Protection

6 bolts up to the anchors. I found it useful to use a couple of longer quickdraws. The bolt placements are not always in the best location for rope drag.

Photos

Tofu Brain
Denver
Tofu Brain   Denver
Buddy. You don't feel comfy belaying from a river? You gotta try it, great for your sore feet after that dope 5.7 TR Onsight, and the rope is a lot easier to manage after it has soaked up all that water. A little advice...when the water is raging make sure to tie into the first bolt and wear goggles, a snorkel might help. Jun 29, 2017
Still a great climb. River is still pretty high, I wouldn't feel comfortable walking around in it or belaying from it. Jun 27, 2017
Here's Whitney and I at the base of "On the Skids" route. It was slippery till past the first bolt. Dad had to show how its done! :-)

The parking fee for climbers in the Dogwood picnic area is now $8. We parked on the road and walked in. Got crowded after 7pm.

Bring a towel, refreshing sore/tired feet in that cool mountain stream would be very nice.

May 15, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.8+
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.8+
Slippy start. Eases up considerably higher on. Apr 18, 2014
Tara Hansen  
 
beginning was really fun and will definitely test you. A gentleman told me I was sure to fall multiple times (don't ever tell someone that before they climb please). I didn't fall, it was a really fun lead! Apr 8, 2014
OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.8+
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.8+
5.8+ due to the slippery start. After that it's much more manageable. Enjoyable route with a lot of options. Aug 7, 2012
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.8+
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.8+
Climbed this route on lead in the hot afternoon sun. River level was low enough to keep rope dry. I was not able to get any shoe friction on the smooth parts, although I did try, and took a clean fall above the 3rd bolt. Try to stay off the smooth stuff and smear any sharp edges you can find. Jul 15, 2009
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
 
Did this today, was barely out of the water. We showed up around 8:30 and didn't have another group come until 9:30, but then there were 20 people top-roping the area.

Climbing to the first two bolts is the hard part, after you're on the ledge it's much better. Just have to trust your feet not to slide right off the polished rock. Jun 23, 2007
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
5.8+
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
5.8+
The bottom section of this climb, to the first bolt, is easily as hard as anything on "I Think I'm Going Bald" or "Unforgiven". The climbing just isn't as sustained. Have your belayer give you a spot if you're leading it. Aug 28, 2005
Lee Gitlin
  5.8
Lee Gitlin  
  5.8
5.8 sounds about right for this climb but DAMN it's hard to trust your feet! After bolt #2 the rock is not as smooth, so the climbing is more positive. Sep 16, 2004
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
That beginnig is a doozy. Smooooth Apr 7, 2004