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Routes in East Face

Birth Simulator T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chambered Nautilus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coral Bells Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Daily Diatribe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deltoid Force T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leftoverture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost But Not Forgotten T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MEGA S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mega Worthy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moral Bells Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oopsie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Overture T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
PTFE T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pump Up the Jam T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Raspberry Ripple T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Strong Persuader T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Sweet and Low S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Teflon Technique T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Touch of Teflon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Worthy Whoopsie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pat Contor, Gary Taylor, Kevin Sweeney 1988
Page Views: 7,049 total, 40/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climbs an arete on the east face. This arete is obvious from the fork. This is a great climb that protects well. The crux is definitely the 1st bolt. Clipped high it is a safe overhang to fall on. The smooth face above is tricky but not too hard. The flake gives you a nice natural place to protect. My first ascent, I zipped right past the flake, jonesing on the chains. Aretes always add a degree of mental difficulty to me and this was no exception.

Protection

2 chains atop for anchors and 3 draws. Bring medium nuts or a cam for the flake before the chains. I documented this as a trad route but it could be a sport route with a long runout at the end.
Send me a message if you left your rope here last night Oct 10th Oct 11, 2015
Rochelle S
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Rochelle S   Salt Lake City, UT
 
First 20 feet are the crux, but the rest is consistent 5.9 arete climbing. There's another set of chains at the top of the extension. Jul 12, 2014
Garrett C
SL,UT
  5.9
Garrett C   SL,UT
  5.9
That second bolt! Hot damn! Up to second bolt felt harder than 5.9, with rest feeling 5.8ish. Runout at the top. Didnt have any gear to place. Aug 25, 2013
OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
0.5 camalot for the flake set well. Love the start! Nov 5, 2012
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
Missing some scarpa feroces (size 10, red white and black). Last seen beneath coral bells arete/chambered nautilus. Reward for their recovery (beer, or slurpee if finder is LDS)

shoot me an email. Jun 1, 2012
Should have read the comments better before leading. I didn't bring any pro and after the 3rd bolt I wished I had something to place under the small ledge below the chains. A fall going over this would get you close to the ground if your belayer came off the ground. Thankfully the holds get significantly better at and above the ledge so it isn't a dealbreaker if you don't have any trad gear on you. Maybe only a problem for a novice like me. May 26, 2012
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
  5.9
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
  5.9
Great route. Do the extension! May 16, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
  5.9
Love this route! An orange Metolius TCU can be used to protect the moves to the chains. Apr 27, 2010
Finn the Human
The Land of Ooo
 
Finn the Human   The Land of Ooo
 
The first move is pretty beefy, getting over that roof. I hooked a heel on the right side, then pulled up to the chalked up hold near the second bolt. My partner found a high toe jib that suited him well. Aug 17, 2009
did this route free solo today, pretty intense...i choose to reach around the arete for the juggy right then work my feet up as high as i can and lunge for the small but extremely positive ledge below the second bolt, pretty smooth after that. the run-out section after the third bolt goes well if you use the arete properly, moral bells extension is all pretty positive and plenty well protected, 5.8ish but adds length to an already fun climb! Aug 9, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
The extension is Moral Bells Arete. Jun 23, 2008
Did this climb tonight and there are 4 more bolts that continue up the face/arette. More of the same 5.8-5.9 climbing. Makes it a little more interesting and not so short for beginners. Jun 22, 2008
The three bolts on this route have been yanked and replaced by 100% Grade A Beef courtesy of Mike White's help and ASCA. They were all spinners....but they were hard to get out....testimony to the longevity of old 20 year old bolts in BCC. At least they are confidence inspiring and no need for backing up the first one as previously mentioned. Thanks again for the spontaneous rally, Mike! Aug 12, 2007
Shaun Greene
www.UtahShaun.com
Shaun Greene   www.UtahShaun.com
Good climb. A little funky getting to that second bolt. There are a plethora of approaches used to pass it. I used a weird side pull on the north side of the arete. My partner just reached way up there and grabbed a high hold on the arete. Either way, its a mighty fine climb. Suggest backing up first bolt with blue metolius. Aug 12, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
 
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
 
a high step is also available to move past the first bolt. Jun 20, 2006
Lee Gitlin
  5.9
Lee Gitlin  
  5.9
Coral Bells is a short, but interesting route. The first bolt is clipped easily enough, but pulling past it requires a tricky, left heel-hook sequence. The route then becomes a classic BCC smedging effort. A flake on the east face after bolt 3 will protect with any number of smaller cams, after which the climbing is much easier. Overall, this is an unusually technical, rewarding climb. Jul 14, 2004