Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ted Wilson, Robert Stout May 1961 |
Page Views: | 5,990 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 29, 2004 · Updates |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
At the west end of The Waterfront, just at the chockstone at the base of the cliffs, is this gully/crack, that angles right. The crux is getting off the ground. Good protection, and easy climbing makes for a great trad lead for beginners. After the initial crack emerges on to the face continue up another 40 feet to a blocky ledge and belay where there are lots of options for gear. ~100' total length
The second pitch continues up the low angle crack on the face. The first tree can be slung but do so on the right side as the crack tends to the right. Slinging the left side will cause rope drag. After a short step a second tree can be slung. From here make left and slightly upwards traverse until it is possible to make small step down to a ledge. There is no gear after the tree so the traverse while easy is rather heads up. At the ledge one can set up a belay in the crack. ~150' feet total length
To descend scramble 10' down into the Plumb Line Gully and return to the base. No rappels are needed.
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