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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T,S A1
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Larry Carrol and Tom Burris, 1978
Page Views: 989 total, 8/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Follow chickenheads with fun mantles and two really bad bolts(not one as in the Ruckman topo)supplemented with small nuts and cams through an overlap and into a flake and crack system with fun jamming.

Location

This is on the middle tier of the east side of the Waterfront and can be approached from Disco Duck or from the ledges and gully above and left of Paranoia Streak. You can also walk over from Touchup with a little exposed scrambling. The route proper starts left of Beam Me Up Scotty but we didn't feel comfortable gaining the ledge where it starts so we climbed out of the gully right and traversed over to the climb. This is an exposed way to do it so we roped up and clipped some gear but I'm sure there is a better way to get over there.

Protection

two bolts, standard rack with long runners

Photos

- No Photos -
JBONE
 
JBONE  
 
Fun. Needs two bolts replaced very badly. Bring new webbing and knife to take crusty stuff at horn anchor. Oct 24, 2013
tenesmus  
 
So, there has to be a better way to get over there because its a bit exposed for one or two moves gaining that slab.

Those bolts are full value museum quality. The first is a buttonhead in a dark water streak that shimy's around when you jiggle the hanger and the second is a corroding 1/4" stud that has a great tcu placement just above it.

I write this to warn the 5.8 climber because you'll need to be comfortable with that kind of gear until it gets updated. Otherwise, you can sew it up. When it does get updated it'll be a fun climb.

If you are an adventurous 5.8 climber, you could do both pitches of Cranial Prophylactic and then walk over with a little scrambling to this one. Or Touchup (9)and then walk over. Or Disco Duck (.10a) and then up that gully. Sep 26, 2007