Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Larry Carrol and Tom Burris, 1978
Page Views: 1,053 total · 8/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Follow chickenheads with fun mantles and two really bad bolts(not one as in the Ruckman topo)supplemented with small nuts and cams through an overlap and into a flake and crack system with fun jamming.


This is on the middle tier of the east side of the Waterfront and can be approached from Disco Duck or from the ledges and gully above and left of Paranoia Streak. You can also walk over from Touchup with a little exposed scrambling. The route proper starts left of Beam Me Up Scotty but we didn't feel comfortable gaining the ledge where it starts so we climbed out of the gully right and traversed over to the climb. This is an exposed way to do it so we roped up and clipped some gear but I'm sure there is a better way to get over there.


two bolts, standard rack with long runners


- No Photos -
So, there has to be a better way to get over there because its a bit exposed for one or two moves gaining that slab.

Those bolts are full value museum quality. The first is a buttonhead in a dark water streak that shimy's around when you jiggle the hanger and the second is a corroding 1/4" stud that has a great tcu placement just above it.

I write this to warn the 5.8 climber because you'll need to be comfortable with that kind of gear until it gets updated. Otherwise, you can sew it up. When it does get updated it'll be a fun climb.

If you are an adventurous 5.8 climber, you could do both pitches of Cranial Prophylactic and then walk over with a little scrambling to this one. Or Touchup (9)and then walk over. Or Disco Duck (.10a) and then up that gully. Sep 26, 2007
Fun. Needs two bolts replaced very badly. Bring new webbing and knife to take crusty stuff at horn anchor. Oct 24, 2013