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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown?
Page Views: 1,774 total · 16/month
Shared By: Arie on Jul 6, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start about twenty five feet left (west) of the base of Barefoot in Barbados in a short right facing corner. Climb up and out following the corner for about 15 feet to a stance proximate a scrub tree. Continue up, passing a fixed pin, following the corner as it trends rightward requiring a couple of short slab moves as the corner crack thins. Here the corner heads back upward, and continuing as a fine layback (avoid the brush). A few more moves leads to a stance and gear belay below a blank steep section of rock.

Descent. Scramble east across ledgy but somewhat dangerous terrain to a small tree and rap from slings. The tree is clearly visible from the base of Barefoot and the slings used to have a locker, but is now MIA (presumed bootey’d). EDIT: chains appeared in 2011(?) at the head of the left-hand variation allowing easier descent.

Location

About 20-30 feet left of Barefoot- same elevation, in a somewhat hidden, right facing semi-dihedral.

Protection

Same as always- Small LCC standard rack

Photos

Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
If anyone has any additional information PM me and I’ll update it. Due to the fading condition of the rap tree the climb would probably benefit from a set of chains- which I would be happy to install, but thought I’d see if anyone had any previous info before breaking out the hammer. I first climbed this in fall 2005 and cleaned it up a bit- it’s probably regained some of its former grit and foliage. A couple of different variations have been done over the years... by others and myself...? Jul 6, 2009
zoso
 
zoso  
 
We grabbed the jug after the fixed pin on the left leaving the initial dihedral. This way continues with 5.9ish moves with bolt, a suspect pin, an obvious small nut placement inches above the pin, bolt, pin, anchor.

Fun moves, but gritty and kinda grungy still. A good line otherwise. May 14, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Very worthwhile line with some heads up moves and small gear. I went for the OS lead and stuck to the seam/corner/dihedral. After climbing above the piton you traverse on thin slab moves over to the other end of the slab, pulling some delicate moves to gain the corner as it angles directly upward. Only the smallest brassies protect this, and only the opening moves of the next section. Unless you have doubles or triples in the smallest brassy sizes you're SOL for pro for a good ways, running it out above marginal micros.

I bailed on two OK nuts and a sling on a tree rather than finishing the rest of the wet pitch with bad/no gear. My buddy led the variation where, after climbing a few feet above the piton, you get a bomber pocket for a solid finger or two in the corner, then make a long reach for a small jug that allows you to swing up on top of the wall and clip a bolt. From there it's a few more 5.9 moves to chain anchors. This was much more fun, better climbing, and better protected.

And there are chain anchors now. With a 60 you can easily TR and rap the route. I'd honestly give this 3 stars if it was cleaner. I will be back soon to climb it again. Mar 10, 2014
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
The first two pitons can be backed up with ballnuts quite well. Much better than trusting some old iron.

Blowing the moves to the first bolt out on the left would result in a pretty nasty fall back into the dihedral, but it's fairly secure. The right finish is in need of serious gardening. Step left to the bolt and do the route that way, it's the superior finish. Mar 21, 2014
Alec LaLonde
  5.9
Alec LaLonde  
  5.9
Significantly more fun than I expected. Cruiser climbing up the dihedral to some really interesting stem/lieback moves at and above the bolt. Do it if you're in the area Apr 30, 2014
KG
SLC, UT
  5.9 PG13
KG   SLC, UT
  5.9 PG13
This route is actually really fun. Definitely worth doing. However the pitons are a little old which makes this a little spicy. The hidden jug after the first piton is excellent! Watch the rope drag on this too.

Rack:

Single BD .1-.75
Small Nuts/ballnuts if you have them
6 draws Aug 26, 2016

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