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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: FA: Erik Kelly, FFA: Paul Robertson
Page Views: 1,734 total · 15/month
Shared By: ErikK on May 10, 2009 with updates from Erik Kelly
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climb is just up the gully from Disco Captain on the same side. It's on a gold shield of rock where the black streaks end. Start on a shield of rock hanging just above the gully and climb a series of cracks and flaps to the top. There is one lead bolt just before the last flap. It's short and bouldery with tricky pro. I originally equipped, cleaned and climbed this at A1.

Freed at 5.13a. A bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating and this is not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.

Protection

Micro cams through Finger size cams and wires. When done free, the gear from bottom to top was a blue TCU (placed from stance on slab), a 0.1" X4, a yellow/orange off-set mastercam, a bolt (good condition from FA), and a silver (hand-sized) tricam. Finish at a two bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Freed this thing back in March (2017) at 5.13a. Bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating. Maybe not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.
my placements from bottom to top:
blue TCU (placed from stance on slab)
0.1" X4
yellow/orange off-set mastercam
bolt (good condition from FA)
Silver (hand-sized) tricam Jun 6, 2017

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