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Routes in Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cold Duck T WI4- R |
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Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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Thin Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft |
| FA: | FA: Erik Kelly, FFA: Paul Robertson |
| Page Views: | 1,734 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | ErikK on May 10, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This climb is just up the gully from Disco Captain on the same side. It's on a gold shield of rock where the black streaks end. Start on a shield of rock hanging just above the gully and climb a series of cracks and flaps to the top. There is one lead bolt just before the last flap. It's short and bouldery with tricky pro. I originally equipped, cleaned and climbed this at A1.
Freed at 5.13a. A bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating and this is not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.
Freed at 5.13a. A bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating and this is not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.
my placements from bottom to top:
blue TCU (placed from stance on slab)
0.1" X4
yellow/orange off-set mastercam
bolt (good condition from FA)
Silver (hand-sized) tricam Jun 6, 2017