Type: Trad, Aid, 40 ft
FA: FA: Erik Kelly, FFA: Paul Robertson
Page Views: 1,804 total · 15/month
Shared By: ErikK on May 10, 2009 with updates from Erik Kelly
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climb is just up the gully from Disco Captain on the same side. It's on a gold shield of rock where the black streaks end. Start on a shield of rock hanging just above the gully and climb a series of cracks and flaps to the top. There is one lead bolt just before the last flap. It's short and bouldery with tricky pro. I originally equipped, cleaned and climbed this at A1.

Freed at 5.13a. A bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating and this is not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.

Protection

Micro cams through Finger size cams and wires. When done free, the gear from bottom to top was a blue TCU (placed from stance on slab), a 0.1" X4, a yellow/orange off-set mastercam, a bolt (good condition from FA), and a silver (hand-sized) tricam. Finish at a two bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Freed this thing back in March (2017) at 5.13a. Bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating. Maybe not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.
my placements from bottom to top:
blue TCU (placed from stance on slab)
0.1" X4
yellow/orange off-set mastercam
bolt (good condition from FA)
Silver (hand-sized) tricam Jun 6, 2017