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Beam Me Up Scotty
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3.5 from 11
votes
Routes in Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Author of Salvation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baptism of Fire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beam Me Up Scotty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Broken Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clip it or Skip It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Duck T WI4- R |
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Comfort of Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A1 |
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Enjoy the Silence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Agnes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flirtin' Death T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flown the Coop S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Floyd the Barber S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Helstirb Grundlip TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jaws T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Juarez S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leap of Faith S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Love at First Sight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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On the Waterfront T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pitmans traverse (Witness the Pitness) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Religion Poisons Everything T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Shady Spur Crack, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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Stuck Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sultans of Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Too Close For Comfort S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 40.5739, -111.7562 |
| FA: | Ruckman, Douglas 1985 |
| Page Views: | 2,506 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Cass Bindrup on Apr 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Due to good-intentioned folks hoping to preserve the route this classic lcc line has not yet been added to mountain project. I do so now only because word is out and the answer to preserving a natural rescource is to spread awareness. The secrets all slip out eventually and the tight-lipped can do nothing about the fact that joe shmo is free to climb whatever he likes.
Beam Me Up is sick! The movement is unique, the position lovey. This thing is a committing slab journey on diorite chicken heads, which do sadly tend to sometimes break; Therefore tread lightly. This route is not for the feint of heart, nor for those without relevant experience. Being a 5.12 sport crusher (or even crack-smasher) does not necissarily mean you can climb 11d slab. In fact often it means that you cannot. Better to save the flailing for another slab than impacting this climb negatively.
May I therefore respectfully suggest a few pre-requisites. Pebbles and bambam (beckeys wall), Final Link (Crescent crack area), S-Direct (The thumb), Dorsal Fin. The one hard crux move on Dorsal is very similar to several sections of this pitch.
If you’re ready to get beamed up then go for it! Maybe Nob Job or Cymbols will call to you next depending on whether you’d like to push boldness or difficulty. This route is both bold and difficult. If you’re falling you’re cheese-grating. If you’re being caught, it might be from a slung chickenhead. Dont climb when wet. Maybe best to avoid the last “hand-foot-match-one-legged-squat” move off the croissant after a storm of donuts. When that thing goes the world will be a much sadder place.
Location
the upper tier of the waterfront must be reached to find the belay pin on the far right section of the sloping ledge system. Easiest to simul-climb chickenhead holiday or losing my religion to access the belay. BMUS ascends the slab directly right of the waterfront cave. It’s above and to the left of the diagnal corner which is the beginning of Flirtin’ With Death.
5 Comments