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Routes in Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Author of Salvation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baptism of Fire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beam Me Up Scotty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Broken Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clip it or Skip It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Duck T WI4- R |
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Comfort of Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A1 |
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Enjoy the Silence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Agnes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flirtin' Death T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flown the Coop S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Floyd the Barber S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Helstirb Grundlip TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Juarez S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leap of Faith S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Love at First Sight S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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On the Waterfront T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pitmans traverse (Witness the Pitness) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Religion Poisons Everything T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Shady Spur Crack, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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Sultans of Swing S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Too Close For Comfort S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Kryger, Tony Calderone, 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,272 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
We climbed this surprisingly good route in April 2013, not having a clue what it was, then with the publication of Caldernone’s LCC guide (vol. 2) earlier that summer, voila, the details emerged. The first part of the route apparently is the same as Baja Breakdown, and the second part is referenced in zozo’s comment posted on the Baja Breakdown page, but the best climbing is above on the headwall of the buttress. The Calderone guide shows it going in two pitches, with chains atop the first pitch, but we did it in one long pitch and I suspect this is the better value (use runners liberally). Nice addition to the area.
Start in a cool little right-facing and soon-arching corner past a pin, step left, then climb steeper ground past three more fixed pieces to the stance. Resist the urge to turn the lead over to your buddy, and jam the nasty little overhanging crack above (crux) and climb through a blocky section until able to step onto the headwall. A ways up there is a bolt. Get to it, then keep moving to and up a seam to the right that leads to the chains.
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