Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Kryger, Tony Calderone, 2012
Page Views: 1,088 total · 16/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

We climbed this surprisingly good route in April, not having a clue what it was, then with the publication of Calderone’'s LCC guide (vol. 2) earlier this summer, voila, the details emerged. The first part of the route apparently is the same as Baja Breakdown, and the second part is referenced in zozo'’s comment posted on the Baja Breakdown page, but the best climbing is above on the headwall of the buttress. The Calderone guide shows it going in two pitches, with chains atop the first pitch, but we did it in one long pitch and I suspect this is the better value (use runners liberally). Nice addition to the area.

Start in a cool little right-facing and soon-arching corner past a pin, step left, then climb steeper ground past three more fixed pieces to the stance. Resist the urge to turn the lead over to your buddy, and jam the nasty little overhanging crack above (crux) and climb through a blocky section until able to step onto the headwall. A ways up there is a bolt. Get to it, then keep moving to and up a seam to the right that leads to the chains.

Location

See Baja Breakdown page.

Protection

Nuts (steel or brass useful), single set of cams to maybe 2.5”, draws, and runners. Two raps down the route.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
Destroyed my hand on the roof. The crack is very gritty with sharp crystals. Too painful for me - I'll go back and do it with tape.
Mar 22, 2014
zoso  
Where the hell is your wrist?!!?

Or your forearm for that matter?

Is your hand attached to your upper arm?

If so, forgive the insensitivity. Mar 23, 2014
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A few comments -

The roof: You can get a nice #1 Camalot at the bottom. If you would like to be really secure for the tougher moves, a #4 Camalot fits nicely up high.

The "headwall": The description here makes it seem as if you'll need to run it out to get to the bolt, but you don't. The protection is great in the #1-ish sized crack that you follow to the bolt.

As stated, if you do this as one long pitch, use runners liberally, especially down low. Mar 26, 2014