Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dan Kryger, Tony Calderone, 2012
Page Views: 1,031 total · 17/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

We climbed this surprisingly good route in April, not having a clue what it was, then with the publication of Calderone’'s LCC guide (vol. 2) earlier this summer, voila, the details emerged. The first part of the route apparently is the same as Baja Breakdown, and the second part is referenced in zozo'’s comment posted on the Baja Breakdown page, but the best climbing is above on the headwall of the buttress. The Calderone guide shows it going in two pitches, with chains atop the first pitch, but we did it in one long pitch and I suspect this is the better value (use runners liberally). Nice addition to the area.

Start in a cool little right-facing and soon-arching corner past a pin, step left, then climb steeper ground past three more fixed pieces to the stance. Resist the urge to turn the lead over to your buddy, and jam the nasty little overhanging crack above (crux) and climb through a blocky section until able to step onto the headwall. A ways up there is a bolt. Get to it, then keep moving to and up a seam to the right that leads to the chains.

Location

See Baja Breakdown page.

Protection

Nuts (steel or brass useful), single set of cams to maybe 2.5”, draws, and runners. Two raps down the route.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
Destroyed my hand on the roof. The crack is very gritty with sharp crystals. Too painful for me - I'll go back and do it with tape.
Mar 22, 2014
zoso  
Where the hell is your wrist?!!?

Or your forearm for that matter?

Is your hand attached to your upper arm?

If so, forgive the insensitivity. Mar 23, 2014
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
A few comments -

The roof: You can get a nice #1 Camalot at the bottom. If you would like to be really secure for the tougher moves, a #4 Camalot fits nicely up high.

The "headwall": The description here makes it seem as if you'll need to run it out to get to the bolt, but you don't. The protection is great in the #1-ish sized crack that you follow to the bolt.

As stated, if you do this as one long pitch, use runners liberally, especially down low. Mar 26, 2014

More About Head On

Printer-Friendly