Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dan Kryger, Tony Calderone, 2012
Page Views: 1,451 total · 17/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Jul 13, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

We climbed this surprisingly good route in April, not having a clue what it was, then with the publication of Calderone’'s LCC guide (vol. 2) earlier this summer, voila, the details emerged. The first part of the route apparently is the same as Baja Breakdown, and the second part is referenced in zozo'’s comment posted on the Baja Breakdown page, but the best climbing is above on the headwall of the buttress. The Calderone guide shows it going in two pitches, with chains atop the first pitch, but we did it in one long pitch and I suspect this is the better value (use runners liberally). Nice addition to the area.

Start in a cool little right-facing and soon-arching corner past a pin, step left, then climb steeper ground past three more fixed pieces to the stance. Resist the urge to turn the lead over to your buddy, and jam the nasty little overhanging crack above (crux) and climb through a blocky section until able to step onto the headwall. A ways up there is a bolt. Get to it, then keep moving to and up a seam to the right that leads to the chains.

Location

See Baja Breakdown page.

Protection

Nuts (steel or brass useful), single set of cams to maybe 2.5”, draws, and runners. Two raps down the route.

Photos