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Routes in Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Author of Salvation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baptism of Fire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beam Me Up Scotty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Broken Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Clip it or Skip It S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cold Duck T WI4- R |
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Comfort of Strangers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dave's Dirty Diagonal 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Dave's Dirty Diagonal A3 |
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Disco Biscuit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A1 |
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Enjoy the Silence S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fat Agnes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flirtin' Death T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flown the Coop S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Floyd the Barber S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Helstirb Grundlip TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jaws T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Juarez S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Leap of Faith S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Love at First Sight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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On the Waterfront T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pitmans traverse (Witness the Pitness) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Religion Poisons Everything T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Shady Spur Crack, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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Stuck Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sultans of Swing S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Too Close For Comfort S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Sport, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.5739, -111.7562 |
| FA: | Arie Leeflang and Tim Myers, fall 2024 |
| Page Views: | 265 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Arie on Jan 15, 2025 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Tucked on the upper end of the Waterfront is this new addition, aiming for an interesting flake. Just like any good border city it's a little gritty and won’t appeal to everyone. But if you’re looking for the promise of cheap booze, cheap dental work, or unsolved murders, this might be your jam.
The first pitch starts in a gash/crack past the prominent west-end Waterfront conifer. This is the crux and you might consider stick clipping the first bolt or bringing your largest friend for a spot. After the opening mantle, launch across the border onto the Juarez crouton-curtain. As they say, pull down, not out. There’s a nice 0.5-size cam placement at the end of the flake at a good stance. Tread lightly on the flake or risk deportation to Colorado. Turn the corner onto the slab above (bolt) and pad for the chains just right of a juniper on a comfortable ledge about forty feet left (west) of the middle of Chickenhead Holiday pitch 2 (depending on where you belay).
Pitch two wanders up the mellow mid-tier Waterfront slab above on quality rock, staying well to the left/west of the upper pitch of Chickenhead Holiday. Two bolts protect this pitch and we thought about adding one more higher but didn’t want to cramp the historic Holiday in any way. The blunt arete to the left can also be climbed (5.ez) and isn't new and doesn't need bolts. Belay on mid-size cams (0.5-3) at the last belay of Chickenhead Holiday. Scamper off west into the Plumbline Gully. It’s easy to rap from the first pitch chains but some of the edges will grind your ropes.
I'm terrible at LCC ratings. You can report me to customs if the rating is too soft.
Location
Currently the furthest west (down-canyon) route on the Waterfront. A stone’s throw west of (lookers left of) Tijuana Donkey Show, just past the prominent conifer. The route starts in a right trending, awkward crack and mantle before launching into the obvious crouton-crusted flake. After turning the corner above the flake, climb the broad slab for another pitch and a half.
Protection
Three bolts on pitch one. Two bolts on pitch two. A 0.5-sized cam protects the exit from the first pitch flake. A handful of other cams can be placed on route, but aren’t really needed. The second pitch belay takes 0.5-3 cams. Bring an extra backpack if you’re moving dr*gs across the border.
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