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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T,S A1
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Contor
Page Views: 2,738 total, 17/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Forty-five seconds west of Barefoot in Barbados, just east of the gully containing Disco Duck, is a bolted slab/arete that requires differing styles. Slab, mantels, and liebacking.

A weak finish, though.

Protection

6 draws and 2 more for the chains.

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
I've done the route to the left and right going up to the final bolt. It's easier, but far less interesting on the left side. Go to the right into the shallow dihedral for superior friction moves and a exciting finish. The crux comes after clipping the bolt anyway so you're almost doing the moves on toprope. Fantastic moves reaching for that final chickenhead. Feb 19, 2015
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
So went back and it seems the two new routes to the left that share the same anchor (5.5 rib and 5.8 to its right) don't squeeze to badly onto Comfort Zone which is a great route and well worth doing. Take care getting to the first bolt - you can use the weird bolt on the in-direct start (to the left) to get a draw/rope on the first bolt to make it safer. After the mantle, I've always climbed to the right to get to the final bolt and you can get a small tcu in the seam before it. Oct 28, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
Holy squeeze-fest extravaganza... Indirect start variation is my favorite FA style too. Sep 11, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.9
Always enjoyed this one. Was up there the other night and wondering who sprayed the bolts all over and too close to this one? Sep 11, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Seeing the bolt, I took the right "ear" variation. Topping out to the left looked way run out. The friction moves over to the ear are not bad. Mar 31, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9-
That's one manly slab circuit Greg! Dec 7, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.8+
this is a nice warm up, and start to a fun slab circuit that goes-Comfort Zone, Barefoot, Prepositional Phrase, Green A (kind of a slab climb right?), The Rumba, and finish on Mind Blow. Dec 7, 2010
After you mantle that giant chickenhead, there is a variation finish that goes out right to that "flake" ear thingy. Can be a little gritty sometimes, and adds a more sustained finish to what Nathan called weak (the real finish is super easy escape left and up if'n yer scared). This variation apeared sometime around 95 I think, maybe earlier? Calderone maybe, I dunno, don't quote me on that. Anyway, it is kind of fun, even though you cast off, before you can see the bolt, maybe a touch runout depending on your friction skills. try it, sure to excite! Again tougher for short folks...."look" for that chickenhead over e lip! Aug 30, 2005