Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jay Anderson
Page Views: 3,077 total · 21/month
Shared By: Aaron Collins on Nov 18, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


It's the wildest climb in Little!!! How many routes do your feet cut on?

Starts with an OW to hands to fingers to a mantle to the chains.


Climb up a ramp to the start of the roof.


Standard LCC rack.


Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
FA: Jay Anderson Jun 8, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Good bolt(not needed, bomber #4 camalot available) protects the start of overhanging hand stacks(invert?) till you hit the undercling horn. Thin hands around the death flake to a good finger lock, then wide #3 camalots to the Captian Ahab belly flop finish. 2 buttonhead bolts for anchor sans chains. We left a few biners but rapping off caused severe twirlybird rope action. Bring some chain if you have it. Pretty burly route as its short but overhangs most of the way. Tape the crap out of your hands or the crack will tear the crap out of you.

Great gear the whole way: 1 #4 camalot(if you're a purist and don't clip the bolt), doubles #1-#3 camalots and singles .3-.5 camalots will give you plenty of gear options.

Of note, there is a newish looking bolt on the left side of the death flake suggesting someone has indeed thrutched up that horrific looking crack, or as the ruckmans put it, "pretty funkadelic". May 15, 2013
Danny Parker
Sandy Utah
Danny Parker   Sandy Utah
the offwidth exit is awesome! bring cams 4 to 6 inches, and make sure to anchor your belay. you may want to seriously consider a helmet for this one, as the ground is close and it's an inverted fall.
I've been calling it Jaws of Flesh, since I cant find any information on it having been climbed.
any offwidth climbers out there? GET ON IT! Aug 10, 2013
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Inverts aren't mandatory for this thing. We had fist jams at the bottom. But if you want to be fancy or have small hands I guess you can go upside down. Sep 24, 2013