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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Ice, 70 ft
FA: Jim Dockery and partner 1977
Page Views: 1,167 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 15, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Ephemeral ice climb forming over the top of the rock climb, "Disco Duck". Tends to be thin. Sometimes can be a sheet of ice with 8" of air behind it. Can be somewhat solid. Patience required to tick this critter. Sustained cold needed to form and remain. Can be formed in the early a.m., and gone by mid a.m.

Location [Suggest Change]

Waterfront over the rock climb, Disco Duck. South facing and sees significant sun (early start prudent).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Set of ice screws including some shorties. Try to find the anchor on Disco Duck but take means to bail if the rock slab below the anchor is too sketchy to lead through. Some folks might find rock gear useful.

Photos

fourteenfour
PNW // PWM // SLC
 
fourteenfour   PNW // PWM // SLC
 
Excellent line. Definitely thin. Probably the last climbable day this season as it is melting out today and the rest of the week - maybe it will form again but watch out for delaminating. Surprisingly a #5 c4 could have been placed behind a slab (at least on this climb) - but we still had 4 screws in. the top-out was a little heady with very thin ice/rock. Great lead from Dallen Ward. Jan 5, 2015

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