Type: Trad, Ice, 70 ft
FA: Jim Dockery and partner 1977
Page Views: 1,208 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jan 15, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Ephemeral ice climb forming over the top of the rock climb, "Disco Duck". Tends to be thin. Sometimes can be a sheet of ice with 8" of air behind it. Can be somewhat solid. Patience required to tick this critter. Sustained cold needed to form and remain. Can be formed in the early a.m., and gone by mid a.m.

Location

Waterfront over the rock climb, Disco Duck. South facing and sees significant sun (early start prudent).

Protection

Set of ice screws including some shorties. Try to find the anchor on Disco Duck but take means to bail if the rock slab below the anchor is too sketchy to lead through. Some folks might find rock gear useful.

Photos

fourteenfour
PNW // SLC // PWM
 
fourteenfour   PNW // SLC // PWM
 
Excellent line. Definitely thin. Probably the last climbable day this season as it is melting out today and the rest of the week - maybe it will form again but watch out for delaminating. Surprisingly a #5 c4 could have been placed behind a slab (at least on this climb) - but we still had 4 screws in. the top-out was a little heady with very thin ice/rock. Great lead from Dallen Ward. Jan 5, 2015