Type: Trad, 205 ft (62 m), 3 pitches
FA: T. Calderone, S. Contrell
Page Views: 10,166 total · 65/month
Shared By: Scottish Randy on Sep 22, 2012 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Start at the base of an oak brush 

P1 -Two layback sections that take good pro, with a bolt protected slab section between them. A thoughtful mantel at the 2nd bolt is the highlight of this pitch. Consider Linking Pitches or clip the Chain anchors (95')

P2 -Up a bit, then a fun step to the left grabbing a big bolted chicken head. Passing more good holds, a few new bolts, and small cracks lead you to a pin. Clip the pin and moving right on the chicken head. mantling your way to the belay ledge. Bolts were added after the FA

P3 - Two Options here, Climb Left from the anchors getting into the deep hand crack. 5.5 Second Option Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors. Finish here to rappel the route. You will see Another set of anchors on the right, These anchors for the route Head On. Continue to the higher set of anchors. Rappelling from here requires two rappels. Descending down Using the anchors for head on or baja breakdown

Descent- Rappel the route or Use the higher set of anchors to do Two Rappels from the Head On Anchor 

Fun to lead, easy to follow.

Location Suggest change

As you head west along the talus field, you'll come across a trail split. Follow the path toward the waterfront and Plumbline Gully. After passing the -11 bolted slab, you'll notice a large scrub oak at the base. The route begins 20' east of the bolted Comfort Zone route, marked by a large flake with a block on top.

Protection Suggest change

Each Pitch is equipped with bolted anchors.

The second pitch has a new variation on the right slab 

A single rack of cams from 0.3-3, Nuts

6 draws, lots of bolts

Runners, if linking pitches 

Photos

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