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Routes in Waterfront, The
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Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cold Duck T WI4- R |
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Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A1 |
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Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13 |
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Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 205 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Tony Calderone, Stan Contrell |
| Page Views: | 4,524 total · 57/month |
| Shared By: | Jack Daniels on Sep 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1 -Two layback sections that take good pro, with a bolt protected slab section between them. A thoughtful mantel at the 2nd bolt is the highlight of this pitch. Chain anchors (95')
P2 - Up a bit, then a fun step to the left with two choices as to what to grab to make it happen. Don't sling the chock stone at your feet to protect this move as it seems a bit loose. Do look for an inward flaring crack that warrants some thought and a double sling. Sling the bush on your way upwards right, while on lookout for a pin. Straight up and right onto the belay ledge (chain anchors), or head right at the pin for a very fun mantle onto the ledge. (55')
P3 - Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three(?) bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors, though one of the chains seems to have been eaten by varmints... so clip the remainder and go right to the anchors for a neighboring 5.10ish route. (70' or so to secondary anchors)
Fun to lead, easy to follow.
P2 - Up a bit, then a fun step to the left with two choices as to what to grab to make it happen. Don't sling the chock stone at your feet to protect this move as it seems a bit loose. Do look for an inward flaring crack that warrants some thought and a double sling. Sling the bush on your way upwards right, while on lookout for a pin. Straight up and right onto the belay ledge (chain anchors), or head right at the pin for a very fun mantle onto the ledge. (55')
P3 - Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three(?) bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors, though one of the chains seems to have been eaten by varmints... so clip the remainder and go right to the anchors for a neighboring 5.10ish route. (70' or so to secondary anchors)
Fun to lead, easy to follow.
Salt Lake City, UT
Salt Lake City, UT
I didn't see a bush to sling on the 2nd pitch, but there is plenty of options for pro. The chains at the top have been fixed and looked good. Aug 17, 2016
Salt Lake City, UT
2nd pitch has an interesting move by the piton up near the anchors and is also protected well.
Did not climb third pitch. but looked to be mainly bolted slab climbing. Jun 7, 2017
Huntington, VT