Losing My Religion
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 205 ft (62 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | T. Calderone, S. Contrell |
Page Views: | 10,166 total · 65/month |
Shared By: | Scottish Randy on Sep 22, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Start at the base of an oak brush
P1 -Two layback sections that take good pro, with a bolt protected slab section between them. A thoughtful mantel at the 2nd bolt is the highlight of this pitch. Consider Linking Pitches or clip the Chain anchors (95')
P2 -Up a bit, then a fun step to the left grabbing a big bolted chicken head. Passing more good holds, a few new bolts, and small cracks lead you to a pin. Clip the pin and moving right on the chicken head. mantling your way to the belay ledge. Bolts were added after the FA
P3 - Two Options here, Climb Left from the anchors getting into the deep hand crack. 5.5 Second Option Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors. Finish here to rappel the route. You will see Another set of anchors on the right, These anchors for the route Head On. Continue to the higher set of anchors. Rappelling from here requires two rappels. Descending down Using the anchors for head on or baja breakdown
Descent- Rappel the route or Use the higher set of anchors to do Two Rappels from the Head On Anchor
Fun to lead, easy to follow.
Location
As you head west along the talus field, you'll come across a trail split. Follow the path toward the waterfront and Plumbline Gully. After passing the -11 bolted slab, you'll notice a large scrub oak at the base. The route begins 20' east of the bolted Comfort Zone route, marked by a large flake with a block on top.
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