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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 205 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tony Calderone, Stan Contrell
Page Views: 4,159 total · 59/month
Shared By: Jack Daniels on Sep 22, 2012 with updates from Peter Lenz
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1 -Two  layback sections that take good pro, with a bolt protected slab section between them. A thoughtful mantel at the 2nd bolt is the highlight of this pitch. Chain anchors (95')

P2 - Up a bit, then a fun step to the left with two choices as to what to grab to make it happen. Don't sling the chock stone at your feet to protect this move as it seems a bit loose. Do look for an inward flaring crack that warrants some thought and a double sling. Sling the bush on your way upwards right, while on lookout for a pin. Straight up and right onto the belay ledge (chain anchors), or head right at the pin for a very fun mantle onto the ledge. (55')

P3 - Head up from the left side of the ledge (or right for some spice) past three(?) bolts. Fun slab moves as you trend left towards to the crack where you find the original belay anchors, though one of the chains seems to have been eaten by varmints... so clip the remainder and go right to the anchors for a neighboring 5.10ish route. (70' or so to secondary anchors)

Fun to lead, easy to follow.

Location

East of the WaterFront, West of Bare Foot barbados
Park at Gate Buttress 1.25 Miles up LCC head up towards the waterfront.

Protection

Standard LCC rack

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
To access this climb, head west from "Barefoot in Barbados" around the corner. It's not on the same wall, which confused me and my partner as it was listed as being between "Baja Breakdown" and "Barefoot," but it's not. Mar 10, 2014
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is a fun little multipitch outing. It would be great for a beginning trad leader. The next time I do it, I would link the 2nd and 3rd pitches since they are both pretty short and rope drag shouldn't be a problem at all.

I didn't see a bush to sling on the 2nd pitch, but there is plenty of options for pro. The chains at the top have been fixed and looked good. Aug 17, 2016
Nik Sorenson
  5.7
Nik Sorenson  
  5.7
The second pitch has sprouted a couple of bolts. I like the placement. They protect potentially bad falls with bad gear. Mar 20, 2017
Oscar Wheeler
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Oscar Wheeler   Salt Lake City, UT
 
1st pitch is combo of trad and sport. bolts protect the more difficult moves. Seemed a little soft for a 5.7 lcc but really enjoyed it.

2nd pitch has an interesting move by the piton up near the anchors and is also protected well.

Did not climb third pitch. but looked to be mainly bolted slab climbing. Jun 7, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Quite entertaining route, not gritty. Silly not to combine P2+P3. 70m=2 raps. Jun 14, 2017

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