Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Rotert, McMillan 1982
Page Views: 579 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This is the left bolted line. It starts in a groove system with a bit of crack work, and then it enters a ladder of chickenheads. Good moves, excellent balance required. Consistently hard climbing forces you to rest stances which luckily can be had. The line is funky, but who said chickenheads had to be in a straight line.

Protection

3 draws for the climb and there are anchors up top. You may be able to sling a chicken head down low. If you finish left you may want a small selection of medium to small pieces.

Photos

grk10vq    
1. mantle, mantle, mantle, then mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel. Sep 15, 2008
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Testy! Your first pro is a slung chickenhead about 15 feet up after climbing some semi-flakey rock, then its spaced chickenheads for another 3 bolts. Some of them are really far apart. I found myself mantle-dynoing. One final chickenhead after the 3rd bolt provides pro before the final bulge pull, but this thing is still R and hard! Best to TR it before leading. Sep 16, 2011
Danie White
SLC, UT
  5.11c R
Danie White   SLC, UT
  5.11c R
Felt harder than 11a to me, but I'm short. TR burn. Jun 24, 2015
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.11+ PG13
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
  5.11+ PG13
A thin hands cam can protect the initial moves before slinging the first positive chicken head, this gives adequate pro until after the last bolt. Bailing left at this point gives pro on Disco Duck, but the true direct finish would take some sort of lassoing the top positive chicken head from below with the bolt 5ft below your feet. Hard, but the lead is reasonably safe for an onsight attempt. Jul 15, 2016