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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T,S A1
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Rotert, McMillan 1982
Page Views: 435 total, 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This is the left bolted line. It starts in a groove system with a bit of crack work, and then it enters a ladder of chickenheads. Good moves, excellent balance required. Consistently hard climbing forces you to rest stances which luckily can be had. The line is funky, but who said chickenheads had to be in a straight line.

Protection

3 draws for the climb and there are anchors up top. You may be able to sling a chicken head down low. If you finish left you may want a small selection of medium to small pieces.

Photos

Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.11+ PG13
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
  5.11+ PG13
A thin hands cam can protect the initial moves before slinging the first positive chicken head, this gives adequate pro until after the last bolt. Bailing left at this point gives pro on Disco Duck, but the true direct finish would take some sort of lassoing the top positive chicken head from below with the bolt 5ft below your feet. Hard, but the lead is reasonably safe for an onsight attempt. Jul 15, 2016
Danie White
SLC, UT
  5.11c R
Danie White   SLC, UT
  5.11c R
Felt harder than 11a to me, but I'm short. TR burn. Jun 24, 2015
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Testy! Your first pro is a slung chickenhead about 15 feet up after climbing some semi-flakey rock, then its spaced chickenheads for another 3 bolts. Some of them are really far apart. I found myself mantle-dynoing. One final chickenhead after the 3rd bolt provides pro before the final bulge pull, but this thing is still R and hard! Best to TR it before leading. Sep 16, 2011
grk10vq    
1. mantle, mantle, mantle, then mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel. Sep 15, 2008