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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T,S A1
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1st Pitch: Kent Wheeler and Eric Wood -- 2nd pitch: Shingo Ohkawa and Zac Robinson
Page Views: 7,773 total, 75/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Jun 7, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Somewhere between Certain Death and Uncertain Death, you are Flirtin' Death.

This line starts near the start for Beam me Up Scotty and follows the right-leaning dihedral out to the steeper wall. Just as the climbing gets a bit tougher, the gear a tad trickier and the rock much grainier, a bolt appears out to the left. clip and continue to the chickenhead and keep mantling up ledges to the belay. The bolts at the belay ledge are a bit awkwardly placed since it was Kent's first bolt on the pitch and he was a bit antsy to get one in! Bring a long sling or extra shoulder length slings to build something handy. This pitch is 5.10

For the second pitch take the crack up until you can clip the bolt near the huge chickenhead. Move up and right eventually getting out to the horn on the arete. A huge, juggy chickenhead is just out of reach so figure out the beta to stand up and mantle onto it. From here it is engaging (but easy!) mantles up to the anchor.

Location

On the upper waterfront. From Disco Duck area, cruise up the slab on your right.

You can just barely reach the ground from the anchors atop the 2nd pitch with a single 70m rope.

Note: 1 foot of 3/8" Zinc plated chain at the Ace Hardware on 4th South, with tax costs $5.12 That was enough motivation for us.

Protection

1st Pitch - Standard LCC rack. nothing bigger than a 1 or 2 camalot. Fingers pieces would be handy, long slings are a must.

2nd Pitch - a few finger sized cams to keep the start from being too spicy. Then 6 quickdraws. A 0.3 C4 is pretty crucial. Some other draws for the anchors as well.

Photos

Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
Oh yeah.. the 2nd bolt on the last pitch was loose. If you're heading up there, bring a wrench. May 7, 2017
Shadow Ayala
Lexington, Kentucky
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, Kentucky
Got on this today. Super great! Even if the second pitch is out of your pay grade, the 5.10 approach pitch is worthy. It is committing and slightly heady since the feet before the second bolt are kitty litterish and hopefully you didnt use your .5 AND .75 already. I also climbed direct up the sweet, baby bushy crack on the second pitch and made a big move right to get to that second bolt. Going right and then back left felt super contrived and abandoned to notion since the awesome finger crack was right there in my face. Minimal gardening needed. The first crux felt hard. It was in the sun and you want friction, and there was very little. I loved this route!!! Thanks Shingo!! May 7, 2017
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
The first pitch is typical LCC- not that good, but not that bad-1.5 stars. Bring a double length sling to equalize the way too spaced out bolts at the top of the 1st pitch-great belay ledge! The second pitch...Killer position! Two things- the first bolt on the 2nd pitch is not needed-great finger sized gear is found 3 feet left of the bolt. It seemed more natural to just climb the finger crack direct to the roof, instead of clipping the 1st bolt, climbing right, and then climbing back left to the roof. I also think the line would be better (perhaps deserving of 4 stars), and even more aesthetic had the top been engineered to finish directly up the steep exposed arete instead of up the "trough." You can finish it up the arete as is, but the fall would be a little ugly. Either way you choose-trough or arete- the crux guards the topout. 3 stars. Jul 3, 2009
bsmoot  
Cool looking line, especially the finish. Where's the crux? In the 70's Marshall Ralph climbed up to the thin horizontal crack on the first pitch. Jun 9, 2009
Muafti  
Great work! Clean, beautiful, line.
Nice pics Andrew.

"Don't sweat the stars, if this was in Rock Canyon they would be petitioning for the addition of a fifth and maybe even sixth star already!" Jun 9, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Saw one of you guys take a little fall on this last weekend. Only to pull out your brush, scrub the foot you slipped on, then send! Jun 9, 2009
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
this is a saturday route. someone else go do it already so that we aren't the only ones inflating the star count... Jun 8, 2009
lenore sparks
Denver, Colorado
lenore sparks   Denver, Colorado
Wow dude, that is a lot of stars. Doesn't leave ya much for Tuesdays. Jun 8, 2009
Kudos...nice looking line on beautiful stone! Jun 8, 2009
How come Shingo's name gets to be first? Fight that one, Zac. Jun 8, 2009
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
with a description like that i feel as though i already climbed it. palms are sweaty and everything ... Jun 8, 2009
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
So that's what all the Facebook fuss was about. Good job lads. Four stars, really? Is that all? Jun 7, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Congrats, guys! Looks rad. I'll have to get up there. Jun 7, 2009
Nice job getting a new route in LCC! Jun 7, 2009
nice work guys.

edited to say I bet that face is way steeper than it looks from the photos or the ground. BMUS is deceptively steep and your line is more so. Jun 7, 2009