Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Ruckman, Ruckman
Page Views: 4,435 total · 25/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

On the east end of the Waterfront, is a bolted route that climbs from a sandy porch. It is within voice distance of Kermit's Wad. It climbs a polished slab to an undercling, then attains a hole. Going from bolt 3 to bolt 5 is thin and consistent.

Protection

5 draws and 2 more for the chains.
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.10a
A small cam may be used in the small corner instead of the second bolt. I prefer this for two reasons: (1) I found it easier to place the cam and clip it, than to reach out way right to clip the bolt; (2) it keeps the rope running a bit straighter, slightly less drag. Dec 4, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
I had meant to add a comment on the bad placement of bolt 2, but I forgot until I read Bobby's comment. I totally agree that the 2nd bolt is a joke. I climbed this climb a couple of weeks after I initially posted this route up, and I did it without the 2nd bolt at all. Mainly proving to myself (and others that care), that the 2nd bolt is worthless, and creates a bad line. I was in fact attempting to do it without bolt 2 and 3, since bolt 3 is just above a pocketed/flake/hole thing. But my nerves made me clip bolt 3. Dec 6, 2004
Peter Gram
Portland, OR
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  
A red alien is bomber in the small left facing corner after bolt 1. Agreed, bolt 2 is a joke. Dec 6, 2004
Lee Jensen
  5.10a
Lee Jensen  
  5.10a
Lots of little micro flakes for your hands and lots of friction for your feet. Nice little short slab. Would be two stars if it were longer. Mar 17, 2005
make sure to do the SLAP finish! At the last bolt, step out right onto the blank slab (left toe on a good chicken) for one final great move. Usually accompanied by a loud resounding "SLAP!!" as you try and get purchase on the buttcheek top-out for the mantle. Try it...I promise you will like it. Watch your friends under 6 feet go dynamic!!! It's a super fun finish to this short route. OH, and throw an orange TCU in for the second piece and avoid that contrived bolt, I agree... Aug 30, 2005
joe t
slc
  5.10a
joe t   slc
  5.10a
The climbing may not be world class, but hanging out at the shady base next to the small waterfall is certainly sweet. Apr 10, 2006
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Joe T., my guess is you are confused about exactly which route this is. If there is a waterfall nearby, you probably aren't going to be doing much slab climbing that day. See Sweep Left. May 26, 2007
Craig Martin
  5.10a
Craig Martin  
  5.10a
Take note of the small waterfall. Very nice setting.


Apr 16, 2010
Bobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.10a
Bobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.10a
:) Craig, I stand corrected. Apr 25, 2010
Derrick W
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Derrick W   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Great route for working on slab technique. It felt a little hard for the grade though that could just be the granite is getting worn. The 2nd bolt is now missing, so bring an appropriate sized cam for the left facing corner...or just run it out. Oct 14, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Verifying 2nd bolt is now gone, and has not been patched. The bolt was simply pulled from the cone. Oct 17, 2012
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Yellow TCU fits the little pocket perfectly. Just make sure to extend it or you'll regret the rope drag. Mar 9, 2014
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Great place to work on slabbing. Quick access and easy to setup a TR solo rig on this and the adjacent 5.9. There are two extremely greasy chicken heads leading to the first bolt. This may have been the original start but I come in from a couple feet from the right in the seam when I lead this. Less greasy. .4 BD pink or red tricam fit in the pocket before stepping over the step to bolt 2. Aug 15, 2017
Grady Mellin
Henniker, NH
 
Grady Mellin   Henniker, NH
 
You can't go through slab season without hitting this climb up at least 8 times! An amazing LCC slab climb with an easy access approach! I don't know why but there is hardly anyone on this gem! Its a perfect climb for summer Sunday afternoon cragging or for warming up to preparing for your 5.15 super slab proj you can only get on in the heart of November! A must do for all slab enthusiasts! May 15, 2018