Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Eric Eliason, Cado Avenali and Pete Lev - 1972
Page Views: 8,365 total · 55/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Sep 24, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This route was probably named this scary name because it was first climbed back when large protection was unavailable. With modern big gear one could sew it up if the climbing gear budget was big enough.

The large OW is visible from the schoolroom area and once at the base, you can really see how big it really is. My guess is that you will be frustratingly close to squeezing into the chimney. Close but no cigar.

Right side in, or left side in... that is always debatable. And I have had multiple climbing partners tell me that I do routes the "wrong way" 75% of the time.


On the Upper Waterfront. I usually will just scramble up the slabs just right of Disco Duck, but you can access the Upper Waterfront after some scrambling from the top of Paranoia Streak.

It starts in the big crack just behind the pillar that leans out and right.


Big cams. as in the Big Green Monster, the (new) #6 Camalot or the big green Friend. These will probably protect the crack decently well if you push it deep in there. (2 of these might be nice along with a #5 camalot)

We placed 2 #4 Big Bros. Mostly just because we had them and they needed to see some action. If you've got them, use them, if not you should still be fine.

The top section protects well with a single set and maybe some stoppers.

There is a bolted anchor with rap rings at the top of the route. you could also build a belay from the slung horn at the top. You need 2 ropes to get down.


john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
tried this route but didn't get very far. Got into the crack but would have liked to have something bigger than the bd now I have a reason to get the wild country. You can down climb most of it but instead of down climbing the whole thing i went east up the ramp to the tree that now has some of my webbing and rapped off. Deffintly will come bag for another try!! Sep 28, 2006
Bill Bones  
Great route, that troy dude looks like a pounder on it though:) Mar 10, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
The stem box above the OW section has some wild wild moves. From the base it looks like the cracks will take gear but they're so filled with bushes you're better off staying out of them. No matter which side you go in expect large amounts of grunting and a bunch of lost skin.
5.8++ Nov 5, 2009
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
This climb kicked my ass, pushed me down, mugged me, stole my wallet, kicked me in the face as I tried to get up and then took my lady out to dinner. Sep 18, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Maybe I am a wuss or a wannabe OW climber, but one could plug 3-4 #6 camalots in this if you wanted pro every 6-7 feet in the OW. I used two BD and one wild country green then ran it out in the easy stem section. VG is not a bad idea to bring if you happen to know someone that owns one, or maybe a big bro or something if you're not comfortable with a very steep OW that is really more 5.10. the actual 5.8 section above the OW is tons of fun, would see alot more traffic if it wasn't guarded by the beast. Burly climb, I found right side in worked for me, but then watched three other people climb it left side in.... May 3, 2017