Clip it or Skip It
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.1 from 33 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,945 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Sep 29, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A very, very thin slab, that looked appealing as I hiked past it on the way to Plumb Line.
It starts with an easy stretch to the first bolt. Then it works past a small overlap to the second bolt. Then two more closely-drilled bolts protect a very thin and chickenhead-less stretch. Razor flakes and fingertip crystals is all that you have to work with.
After the last bolt a thin seam on the left allows you to work a very committing lieback up through the final tough sequence, until you can get some fingertips in the seam.
The crux seemed to be right around bolt #4.
Caveat: my rating is probably not accurate, as I only climbed it once in the sun on a warm day. If anyone else has info, please post it.
It starts with an easy stretch to the first bolt. Then it works past a small overlap to the second bolt. Then two more closely-drilled bolts protect a very thin and chickenhead-less stretch. Razor flakes and fingertip crystals is all that you have to work with.
After the last bolt a thin seam on the left allows you to work a very committing lieback up through the final tough sequence, until you can get some fingertips in the seam.
The crux seemed to be right around bolt #4.
Caveat: my rating is probably not accurate, as I only climbed it once in the sun on a warm day. If anyone else has info, please post it.
Location
About thirty-seconds west of Barefoot in Barbados, easily recognizable by the four closely-spaced, reddish bolt hangers.
6 Comments