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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T,S A1
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Gilbert, Alred 1979
Page Views: 7,770 total · 49/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This climb climbs the rightward trending crack, that stays left of the bolt line. A very fun climb, Disco Duck well deserves to be climbed regularly, as its only drawback is it's length and tricky pro. This climb starts easy, uses a fun hand crack, and then climbe to a ledge. The rightward sweep is the reason you came, you realize, as you hop across the chickenheads using the crack as an undercling. The rests are there even though they may not feel like it. Save a bit for the finish.


Large piece or two for down low. medium to small stuff up higher, some tricky placements. Anchors up top.
Nick Spirop
Salt Lake City, UT
Nick Spirop   Salt Lake City, UT
This route is much different than Mexican Crack. Lots of laybacks and solid holds where you need them. Definitely easier than Mexican. Sep 9, 2016
Leo L.
Salt Lake City, UT
Leo L.   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route. I will second the notion that the protection doesn't need to be blind. Every stance before a crux has a hold which lets you place gear safely. standard rack works fine, I used ~1 of each cam .5-2 and 3 nuts, everything else was bonus.

5.8 climbing between the 5.10a cruxes, but felt like harder because it was still damp in a portion of the higher crux. TR Disco Chicken after! its worth it to get practice on some neat movement Apr 21, 2016
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
Gotta Hackattack the Quack-attack!!! Apr 3, 2015
Ryan Arnold
Ryan Arnold  
Loved it! Agree that it's a two move crux and otherwise unsustained 5.8. I don't understand the gear comments though... lots of obvious pods for great cams and nuts. Crux moves are very easy to protect if you lean over far enough to see into the crack. May 2, 2014
bheller   SL UT
Pay no attention to Boissal- he just likes to hide at height and pounch on the un-suspecting. Its his thing. For what its worth, I think Mexican crack has multiple 10a moves, none of which are harder than the crux of Disco Duck. Apr 28, 2014
Gee, I thought my point was obvious. Mexican Crack is significantly harder than this route. I'll spell things out a little better next time. Apr 28, 2014
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
Mexican crack has 1 move of 10a. What's your point? Apr 25, 2014
Fun and interesting route. Harder than Mexican Crack? That one made me laugh. This climb has exactly 2 moves of .10a, which are well protected. The rest of the route is 5.8. Apr 24, 2014
benjaminleaton Eaton
Sandy, UT
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
Check out the vid. If your plans are to onsight this route, then don't watch it.
Disco Duck Video May 24, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Got my quack on for the duck. Easy fun climbing with one distinct crux 3/4 of the way up where a #3 camalot worked well. Balance up some slippery liebacks to a final chicken nugget foot and its over. Single set of cams is fine, though I placed 2 #2 camalots, and the gear is good though you can't place wherever you want. I didn't feel any of the placements were blind and I would say Mexican is harder. Every 5 feet of this one is a bomber rest on a chicken. Do this then TR Disco Chicken. Sep 16, 2011
ddriver   SLC
Hard to decide if this is 3 or 4 stars, but due to the super features I'm giving it an MP 4 stars. The only dirt in the crack is early, where its avoidable, and at the final stance, and not really an issue. Placements are not blind per se, just require a bit of patience to scope out. Maybe a tad harder than Mexican Crack I'm thinking, and almost as good. Jun 27, 2011
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
way good! a must do for the lcc 5.10 leader. a nice change of pace from the normal lcc stuff imo. Oct 10, 2010
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
really great fun climbing. Crux is exiting the delicate laybacking for sure. Really dirty in the crack though... I was a little unsure about where to start this as that horizontal crack runs down pretty low. Jul 1, 2008
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
got your self some traversing crack some chicken heads a blind placement here or there. off hand a really fun lead for a solid 5.10 climber o and theres layback! I would come back to do it again May 13, 2006

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