Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Gilbert, Alred 1979
Page Views: 8,581 total · 50/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 11, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This climb climbs the rightward trending crack, that stays left of the bolt line. A very fun climb, Disco Duck well deserves to be climbed regularly, as its only drawback is it's length and tricky pro. This climb starts easy, uses a fun hand crack, and then climbe to a ledge. The rightward sweep is the reason you came, you realize, as you hop across the chickenheads using the crack as an undercling. The rests are there even though they may not feel like it. Save a bit for the finish.


Large piece or two for down low. medium to small stuff up higher, some tricky placements. Anchors up top.
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
got your self some traversing crack some chicken heads a blind placement here or there. off hand a really fun lead for a solid 5.10 climber o and theres layback! I would come back to do it again May 13, 2006
salt lake city, UT
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
really great fun climbing. Crux is exiting the delicate laybacking for sure. Really dirty in the crack though... I was a little unsure about where to start this as that horizontal crack runs down pretty low. Jul 1, 2008
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
way good! a must do for the lcc 5.10 leader. a nice change of pace from the normal lcc stuff imo. Oct 10, 2010
ddriver   SLC
Hard to decide if this is 3 or 4 stars, but due to the super features I'm giving it an MP 4 stars. The only dirt in the crack is early, where its avoidable, and at the final stance, and not really an issue. Placements are not blind per se, just require a bit of patience to scope out. Maybe a tad harder than Mexican Crack I'm thinking, and almost as good. Jun 27, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Got my quack on for the duck. Easy fun climbing with one distinct crux 3/4 of the way up where a #3 camalot worked well. Balance up some slippery liebacks to a final chicken nugget foot and its over. Single set of cams is fine, though I placed 2 #2 camalots, and the gear is good though you can't place wherever you want. I didn't feel any of the placements were blind and I would say Mexican is harder. Every 5 feet of this one is a bomber rest on a chicken. Do this then TR Disco Chicken. Sep 16, 2011
benjaminleaton Eaton
Sandy, UT
benjaminleaton Eaton   Sandy, UT
Check out the vid. If your plans are to onsight this route, then don't watch it.
Disco Duck Video May 24, 2013
Fun and interesting route. Harder than Mexican Crack? That one made me laugh. This climb has exactly 2 moves of .10a, which are well protected. The rest of the route is 5.8. Apr 24, 2014
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Mexican crack has 1 move of 10a. What's your point? Apr 25, 2014
Gee, I thought my point was obvious. Mexican Crack is significantly harder than this route. I'll spell things out a little better next time. Apr 28, 2014
bheller   SL UT
Pay no attention to Boissal- he just likes to hide at height and pounch on the un-suspecting. Its his thing. For what its worth, I think Mexican crack has multiple 10a moves, none of which are harder than the crux of Disco Duck. Apr 28, 2014
Ryan Arnold
Ryan Arnold  
Loved it! Agree that it's a two move crux and otherwise unsustained 5.8. I don't understand the gear comments though... lots of obvious pods for great cams and nuts. Crux moves are very easy to protect if you lean over far enough to see into the crack. May 2, 2014
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
Gotta Hackattack the Quack-attack!!! Apr 3, 2015
Leo L.
Salt Lake City, UT
Leo L.   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route. I will second the notion that the protection doesn't need to be blind. Every stance before a crux has a hold which lets you place gear safely. standard rack works fine, I used ~1 of each cam .5-2 and 3 nuts, everything else was bonus.

5.8 climbing between the 5.10a cruxes, but felt like harder because it was still damp in a portion of the higher crux. TR Disco Chicken after! its worth it to get practice on some neat movement Apr 21, 2016
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, UT
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, UT
This route is much different than Mexican Crack. Lots of laybacks and solid holds where you need them. Definitely easier than Mexican. Sep 9, 2016
Salt Lake City
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
I tried to copy my brother in name Greg Gavin (see Greg's awesome fall picture on route pics) and fell off the transition out of the lay back onto the chicken head. My foot dragged on the slab I took the fall upside down. I'll look at my helmet and red and orange Metolius cams more fondly from now on as they saved my neck.

Thanks to Nate Layton for the catch and repeating it after his onsight to get my gear Jul 10, 2018