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Routes in Waterfront, The

Acapulco Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Baja Breakdown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Certain Death T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead Holiday T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cold Duck T WI4- R
Comfort Zone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Disco Captain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Disco Chicken S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Disco Duck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Disco Lizard T,S A1
Flirtin' Death T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Flown the Coop S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gritman's Traverse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Head On T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jaws of Flesh T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Just Hanging Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Losing My Religion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantels to Mazatlan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
On the Waterfront T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seams Like the Seashore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Slice of Bread T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 PG13
Thin Slab S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Slab S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Waterfront Cave T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: John Maddux, John Hansen 1995
Page Views: 1,307 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Oct 21, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Just left of Chickenhead Holiday is this slabby area. There are three bolted beginnings here. This is the rightmost. Carefully work your way to the first bolt avoiding the potentially dangerous pre-bolt fall. Continue to the 2nd and veer left to the third bolt just off the blunt arete. Here the route steepens and the crux awaits. It seemed harder than 5.10b to me.

Protection

3 draws for the climb and 2 for the chains, a runner for a chickenhead tie-off would be helpful and if desired bring a couple of medium pieces for the easy finish.

Photos

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Timmy Fearn
  5.10b/c
Timmy Fearn  
  5.10b/c
Good lead, I had an extra buddy give a spot, just to push me away from the abyss should I have fallen before the first bolt, but it's pretty easy to there. I wonder if some of those flakes have broken off on the wall to the right of the arete cause I was like 5.10b??? But maybe it was just sequential cause when I finally nailed it, I just cruised. That third bolt is way solid. I checked it many times before I knew what was up! Apr 2, 2007
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
I seconded this... This route, like a lot of slab routes in LCC has bolts above good stances and pretty good run outs (PG-PG13). I think this would be a heck of an exciting lead! And I don't want to try it any time soon. Oct 13, 2006