Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Scott Keller, Jason Singer Smith
Page Views: 352 total · 11/month
Shared By: Scott Keller on Jun 18, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Approach the Waterfront headwall via Disco Duck or similar. Slice of Bread attacks the giant roof left of "the Cave" with horizontal aid climbing. The roof may conceivably go free.

Pitch 1: Start up the Cave route and move left towards an overhanging finger to a two-bolt belay (.10a).

Pitch 2: Use difficult free moves and a bolt ladder up a steeping flake to the big roof. Small pro and bolts will aid through the wild roof and onto the diagonal ledge with the next belay.

Pitch 3: Free climb up and left out the next long traversing ledge with a spicy undercling (5.9). Exit straight up via two bolts to the top and find the belay to the left on an exposed ledge.

Descent: Two exposed single rope rappels will get you back down to the slabs.

Note the first two pitches could be combined if you manage well for rope drag.


In between Birdland and the Cave, follows a super steep water streak to the roof. I heard Cameron Lawson aided a variation to the left of the roof without bolts (copperheads?). He has two of my angles that I left at the first below on the first attempt.


Pro up to 2". Small cams and aliens recommended for the roof.


Stevie Nacho   Utah
is this route new? Any lead or follow photos? Any pitons needed? Good to see another aid route in LCC. Jun 22, 2016
Scott Keller
  5.10a C2
Scott Keller  
  5.10a C2
It's not new as of this posting - first attempt (failed) was back in 1992 with Rob Frick. The FA was completed in approx 1998. I'll try to find a pic of the FA with Singer getting inverted.

No pins required - it's clean. If you're tall, you can treat the roof like a bolt ladder. We added bolts because it could conceivably go free at a high grade. Jun 27, 2016