Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade VI|
|FA:||Scott Keller, Jason Singer Smith|
|Page Views:||850 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Scott Keller on Jun 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch 1: Start up the Cave route and move left towards an overhanging finger to a two-bolt belay (.10a).
Pitch 2: Use difficult free moves and a bolt ladder up a steeping flake to the big roof. Small pro and bolts will aid through the wild roof and onto the diagonal ledge with the next belay.
Pitch 3: Free climb up and left out the next long traversing ledge with a spicy undercling (5.9). Exit straight up via two bolts to the top and find the belay to the left on an exposed ledge.
Descent: Two exposed single rope rappels will get you back down to the slabs.
Note the first two pitches could be combined if you manage well for rope drag.