GPS: 40.574, -111.749 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,523 total · 103/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Nov 27, 2007 with improvements by Brent Barghahn
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Today
88°F - 59°F 31°C - 15°C
Wed
85°F - 64°F 29°C - 18°C
Thu
87°F - 65°F 31°C - 18°C
Fri
88°F - 60°F 31°C - 16°C
Sat
82°F - 58°F 28°C - 14°C
Sun
84°F - 62°F 29°C - 17°C
Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.

Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.

Getting There

A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
 
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork left here for the dispersed routes on the Lower and South Peeler faces

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Face Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 47
Western Grebe
Trad 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Fool's Paradise
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 6
Great Grebes, Batman!
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Sportsman's Paradise
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Megadeth
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Frozen Stool
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Western Grebe
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Fool's Paradise
 28
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Great Grebes, Batman!
 6
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Sportsman's Paradise
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
Megadeth
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Frozen Stool
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Face »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments