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South Face Rock Climbing
Routes in South Face
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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[Redacted] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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American Coot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Black Arch, The T A3+ |
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Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Duck Soup to Missing Duck to Cooter to Father's Day T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fool's Paradise T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Hornet, The A2 |
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Megadeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Chicken Slab S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Power Wedgie S V3 6A |
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Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Slayer T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Thirstier Than Thongs T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Uglier Than Underoos T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| GPS: |
40.57399, -111.7486 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 34,885 total · 167/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Nov 27, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: On private land.
Details
The land on which sits Black Peeler Buttress is owned by Perpetual Storage perpetualstorage.com/index_….
Be respectful of private property.
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.
Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.
Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.
Getting There
A newer legal approach heads directly up the hill side below the Peeler South Face.
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork left here for the dispersed routes on the Lower and South Peeler faces
Begin at a roadside trail 0.25 miles past the Gate parking. A skinny, flat topped, triangular boulder marks the start 75ft down canyon from the wedged Stick Boulder (The Hill bouldering). Follow the dirt trail staying just left of the large boulder field. The trail heads almost straight up the hill besides a slight jog down canyon near a large fin shaped boulder. After the jog, follow the trail up a pleasant rocky drainage to the start of the cliff. Fork left here for the dispersed routes on the Lower and South Peeler faces
Classic Climbing Routes at South Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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