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Routes in South Face

Better Than Bikinis T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Daffy's Shaft T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Dark of the Moon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duck A L'Orange T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Duck Waddle Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fool's Paradise S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Frozen Stool T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Grebes, Batman! T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hornet, The A2
Pied-Billed Grebe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Playing In The Sun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ruddy Duck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Sportsman's Paradise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Via Duck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walking the Duck T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Western Grebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe Mantel Var. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Why a Duck? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Slab routes and crack climbs dominate this area. Most protect well; some are runout. Slightly coarser-grained granite than Gate Buttress and "Green A" rock allows your shoes to stick a little better; however, due to the scarcity of climbers, the rock is pretty flaky on most of the routes.

Two-rope rappels are necessary on a lot of routes, and be aware that although many of the old 1/4-inchers have been replaced, not all have. South-facing and hot in the summer, yet too high up in the canyon for the winter sun to effectively melt the snow equates to a great Spring/Fall area.
On private land. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Getting There

Park approximately 1.85 miles up canyon at a white power plant (the Pentapitch Area parking), cross the road, and hike west on the dirt road with a gate and "Absolutely No Trespassing" signs.

If this makes you nervous, skirt the signs by 50 feet and bushwhack up to the road.

Follow the dirt road to the point where it turns east at an eroded switchback and continue west on foot trails. These trails will get you to the routes in 15 minutes or so.

It is very easy to turn north too early on these trails, which will take you to the Peeler Face area. Look for bolted slab routes that the trail passes.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Western Grebe
Trad 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Paradise
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Great Grebes, Batman!
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sportsman's Paradise
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Western Grebe 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 4 pitches
Fool's Paradise 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Great Grebes, Batman! 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad
Sportsman's Paradise 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Face »

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