Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA: Ted Wilson, FFA: George Lowe, 1968
Page Views: 6,407 total · 36/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

160 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Below and slightly east of the The Thumb is a small, slightly triangular wall leaning just shy of vertical. Splitting this wall is a thin fingertips-to-thin-hands crack which begged ascent pre-1968 when Mayor Ted aided it and named it Plumb Line. Today, it's a classic, steep finger crack which despite it's lengthy approach is a must do (and one which I do at least once a year for grins). Follow the approach description under The Thumb
. Gather your less-than-1.5" pro, and prep for an entertaining climb.

Begin right at the base of the crack, and attain a stance right below the steepest part of the crack. Place a piece as high as you can, and then work slightly left of the crack for two moves, and then back directly into the crack (If you choose the Acute Angle Variation - 5.9, this is where you'll joining the crack). Continue up the ever-widening crack to the relatively recent two-bolt belay.

When I first did this (see the "action photos") the tree at the top was the belay anchor and there was still a bush growing at the top of the crux. Now there are two glue-ins. The last 15' warrant tape if you're as wimpy as I am.


Small to medium nuts and small cams to 1.5"
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
A great climb just kind of short. I didn't use anything larger than a .75 camalot or maybe a #1. Fun finger locks until it widens to a more rattling finger size. Sep 30, 2004
Lee Gitlin
Lee Gitlin  
There are enough chicken heads down low to avoid shredding your fingertips, but the crux demanded an interesting layback/double-gaston/slap-for-the-jug combination. Microcams are the order of the day. A little longer, and this would be a 3-star route. Worth the hike. Sep 30, 2004
Some other fun routes in the area are Hangman 9+, and Boomerang 10a. Bring multiple yellow TCU's for Boomerang. Great pitch, that sees little traffic so it can be gritty, REALLY a great climb though. Crux feels like if you popped you'd snap all your fingers! YIKES! Probably not, but a way fun route! Give it a try, and recomend it to others, so it will stay clean. May 23, 2005
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
This is a really satisfying lead! Oct 13, 2006
Sandy, UT
sfotex   Sandy, UT
What a great climb and a fun lead! Got in some marginal small stoppers at the start, then got a bomber #5 stopper in to to protect the crux. Jul 16, 2008
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
This is a plumb of a line! Great for practicing sewing skills - nuts to .75 and thanks so much for the new anchors that will save the beautiful Mahogany! Sep 13, 2010
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
Wow! Amazing move after amazing move! All the cruxes are well protected. Awesome, awesome climb. Nov 26, 2011
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
Microcams are the way to go. Placed a 0,1,2,3 and 4 Metolius, as well as a small nut at the start. Crux is balancy and very delicate but protects very, very safely. As an emerging 5.10a trad leader this was a great climb to cut my teeth on. Sep 7, 2013
Ryan Arnold
Ryan Arnold  
Almost as good as Green A. May 2, 2014
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
My partner pulled 2 nuts and decked on to me falling from the low crux of this climb. Place those nuts well, and extend them so they aren't getting levered out if you should fall past em. Sep 12, 2014
Park City, UT
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
This route is SO PLUMBER!! Apr 3, 2015
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Great gear, awesome movement, and steeper then green a. Jun 5, 2016
Grady Mellin
Henniker, NH
Grady Mellin   Henniker, NH
Solid 10a anywhere outside of Little, but I felt it to be easier than most classic Little 5.9's like Sasquatch, Gordon's hangover or the Coffin. I don't want to be a sandbagger and call it 5.9 but lets be consistent, 5.9+. Jun 1, 2017

Be careful on this one. Jul 10, 2018