Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA: Ted Wilson, FFA: George Lowe, 1968
Page Views: 7,797 total · 39/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Below and slightly east of the The Thumb is a small, slightly triangular wall leaning just shy of vertical. Splitting this wall is a thin fingertips-to-thin-hands crack which begged ascent pre-1968 when Mayor Ted aided it and named it Plumb Line. Today, it's a classic, steep finger crack which despite it's lengthy approach is a must do (and one which I do at least once a year for grins). Follow the approach description under The Thumb
. Gather your less-than-1.5" pro, and prep for an entertaining climb.

Begin right at the base of the crack, and attain a stance right below the steepest part of the crack. Place a piece as high as you can, and then work slightly left of the crack for two moves, and then back directly into the crack (If you choose the Acute Angle Variation - 5.9, this is where you'll joining the crack). Continue up the ever-widening crack to the relatively recent two-bolt belay.

When I first did this (see the "action photos") the tree at the top was the belay anchor and there was still a bush growing at the top of the crux. Now there are two glue-ins. The last 15' warrant tape if you're as wimpy as I am.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and small cams to 1.5"

Photos