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Routes in Plumb Line Gully

A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Acute Angle Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Boomerang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Calderone Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Euphorbia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Filthy Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Hangman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plumb Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA: Ted Wilson, FFA: George Lowe, 1968
Page Views: 6,301 total · 36/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Below and slightly east of the The Thumb is a small, slightly triangular wall leaning just shy of vertical. Splitting this wall is a thin fingertips-to-thin-hands crack which begged ascent pre-1968 when Mayor Ted aided it and named it Plumb Line. Today, it's a classic, steep finger crack which despite it's lengthy approach is a must do (and one which I do at least once a year for grins). Follow the approach description under The Thumb
. Gather your less-than-1.5" pro, and prep for an entertaining climb.

Begin right at the base of the crack, and attain a stance right below the steepest part of the crack. Place a piece as high as you can, and then work slightly left of the crack for two moves, and then back directly into the crack (If you choose the Acute Angle Variation - 5.9, this is where you'll joining the crack). Continue up the ever-widening crack to the relatively recent two-bolt belay.

When I first did this (see the "action photos") the tree at the top was the belay anchor and there was still a bush growing at the top of the crux. Now there are two glue-ins. The last 15' warrant tape if you're as wimpy as I am.

Protection

Small to medium nuts and small cams to 1.5"
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.10a
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.10a
A great climb just kind of short. I didn't use anything larger than a .75 camalot or maybe a #1. Fun finger locks until it widens to a more rattling finger size. Sep 30, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.10a
Lee Gitlin  
  5.10a
There are enough chicken heads down low to avoid shredding your fingertips, but the crux demanded an interesting layback/double-gaston/slap-for-the-jug combination. Microcams are the order of the day. A little longer, and this would be a 3-star route. Worth the hike. Sep 30, 2004
Some other fun routes in the area are Hangman 9+, and Boomerang 10a. Bring multiple yellow TCU's for Boomerang. Great pitch, that sees little traffic so it can be gritty, REALLY a great climb though. Crux feels like if you popped you'd snap all your fingers! YIKES! Probably not, but a way fun route! Give it a try, and recomend it to others, so it will stay clean. May 23, 2005
Rob C.
Freeport, ME
Rob C.   Freeport, ME
This is a really satisfying lead! Oct 13, 2006
sfotex
Sandy, UT
  5.10a
sfotex   Sandy, UT
  5.10a
What a great climb and a fun lead! Got in some marginal small stoppers at the start, then got a bomber #5 stopper in to to protect the crux. Jul 16, 2008
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
This is a plumb of a line! Great for practicing sewing skills - nuts to .75 and thanks so much for the new anchors that will save the beautiful Mahogany! Sep 13, 2010
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10a
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10a
Wow! Amazing move after amazing move! All the cruxes are well protected. Awesome, awesome climb. Nov 26, 2011
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Microcams are the way to go. Placed a 0,1,2,3 and 4 Metolius, as well as a small nut at the start. Crux is balancy and very delicate but protects very, very safely. As an emerging 5.10a trad leader this was a great climb to cut my teeth on. Sep 7, 2013
Ryan Arnold
  5.10a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.10a
Almost as good as Green A. May 2, 2014
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
My partner pulled 2 nuts and decked on to me falling from the low crux of this climb. Place those nuts well, and extend them so they aren't getting levered out if you should fall past em. Sep 12, 2014
thehackattacks
Park City, UT
 
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
 
This route is SO PLUMBER!! Apr 3, 2015
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10a
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
  5.10a
Great gear, awesome movement, and steeper then green a. Jun 5, 2016
Grady Mellin
Henniker, NH
  5.9+
Grady Mellin   Henniker, NH
  5.9+
Solid 10a anywhere outside of Little, but I felt it to be easier than most classic Little 5.9's like Sasquatch, Gordon's hangover or the Coffin. I don't want to be a sandbagger and call it 5.9 but lets be consistent, 5.9+. Jun 1, 2017
instagram.com/p/BhAlm6xlqcD/

Be careful on this one. Jul 10, 2018

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