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Routes in Plumb Line Gully

A Little Razz-Ma-Tazz and All That Jazz T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Acute Angle Var. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Boomerang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Filthy Garbage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1
Hangman T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Plumb Line T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Zot T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: L. Ellison, H. Armantrout, 1982
Page Views: 1,151 total, 12/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Gravity's Rainbow begins in a right-arching hand crack that quickly widens to OW, then into an awkward squeeze. Savor the "Little Cottonwood Lean" as you move out of the maw, then onto the wafer-thin flake above. Traverse right along the splitter, undercling flake to a two-bolt anchor. From the belay, climb past a mahogany and to a finger crack leading up to an overlap. Surmount the bulge by aiding off of the antique 1/4" bolt on the slab above; undercling-lieback the right-angling corner--the rock quality really begins to degrade here--and into a small alcove. The Ruckman topo shows the line traversing off of the slab to the right; however, it is also possible to climb directly out of the gritty alcove to the rappel tree--a small, uninspiring mahogany tree adorned by faded tat.

Protection

Bring along a standard LCC rack up to 4" for the first pitch, doubles are not necessary, but may prove useful--long slings are a must for the second pitch to reduce rope drag.

Location

Gravity's Rainbow begins 15 feet to the left of the start to Boomerang.

Photos

JBONE  
"Key Beta" proved to be not very key Apr 30, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
More hard lcc OW. Compared to Cashmere Crack this one is a breeze, but still not easy. Milk the jams in the back while they last, then do a few hard chicken wing whatevers before getting a thank goodness hand jams in the flake. Gear: 1 each .5 to #3 camalot, nothing bigger needed. I hauled my big cams up hoping for some action but found better gear in the back. Fun flake action to top, 2 bolt anchor with wasp nest nearby.
Key beta: left side in, all gear on right side, have .5 ready to place with QD attached, make sure rope is on left side. Send it. Jul 27, 2012
Though a bit awkward, the crux wideness seems easier then the grade suggests; the second pitch, as far as i know, has yet to be freed... Nov 9, 2009