Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,708 total · 19/month
Shared By: Michael Buchanan on Apr 5, 2007 with updates from choppinBolts
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


P1: Overhanging handcrack/flake to a slab with 3 very closely space bolts. Super Classic Mantle moves! Slab is somewhat mottled. Burly moves at the bottom, seems more physical and less technique than Plumbline... (.9+)

P2: A lieback, finger to hand crack on a broken face. Difficult, sustained climbing up an arcing break. The crux comes early on past the second protruding tree, then a redpoint, technical/power crux comes up high at the mini-roof/undercling. Build a belay at a large pine tree if finishing, or build a belay with small gear and a slung chicken head at an overlap if continuing to the top. (.9++)

P3: Follow a small crack up the prow passing a bashie and a bolt. Build a belay and walk off. (.5)

Descend P1 by scrambling toward The Thumb (West) and back down to the base of Plumbline.

Descend P2 by scrambling west towards The Thumb down some moderate, but secure terrain.

Descend P3 via a more difficult scramble west towards The Thumb


Around the corner, up and right (east) from Plumbline.


P1: Camalots #1-4, 3 quickdraws, one shoulder length sling w/ QD for the flake before the slab. NO BOLTED TOP ANCHOR. Can get a pink, blue, and red Lowe Tricam into detached blocks at base of the OW second pitch or sling a large block just after Hangman's finish.

P2: Standard rack of medium nuts and a full range of cams up to a #3 camalot. NO BOLTED TOP ANCHOR. Build a belay in a small over lap using micro cams.

P3: Standard light rack, and a few runners. NO BOLTED TOP ANCHOR.
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
Seems like cams down to .5 on P1 and .2ish on P2 are useful.
There's a slung block on top of P1 with a quicklink to belay from, the cordelette is showing some discoloration. You can back it up by slinging 2 small bushes but it would be hard to get a solid piece anywhere near.
Don't miss P2, it's stouter than P1 but sports some very good climbing and wild moves. The horn feature will leave you puzzled...
The walk off the top of P2 is plush. Apr 12, 2010
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Didn't the guide rate the first pitch 5.8? Awesome pitch and well protected with a 1 thru 3.5 camalot - use some long slings before and on bolts to minimize rope drag. Lasso the block at the base of 2nd pitch for belay. I second the 9++ rating for the 2nd pitch - wow!! very pumpy for me but great pro. You can now belay the 2nd at a beautiful gold rap-station at the top of some sick looking project. We barely made it to the ground from there with a 60m. If you do the third pitch a single-rope rap from it puts you close to the start of Boomerang. Sep 13, 2010
Walk to the right of the overlaps and you'll find the gold chains. A 70m will get you straight to the ground, though you'll only have a few meters left over. Sweet free hanging rap for about 50 feet of it. May 28, 2013
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
P1 Pro: in the overhanging hand crack, I placed one each #.75, #1, then at the top of the handcrack, before traversing left, I placed a #4 (all with a 24" slings). You could sew it up by adding a #2, and another #4 (for mid-left traverse). The obvious tip of the flake could be slung with a 24" runner, before heading up the three bolts on the slab.

P2 Pro: Climb slab/chicken-heads, to enter crack above the second bush (to avoid wrestling with said bush). Even though the crack looks wide, it's narrow in the back and takes #0.5 - #2, we placed one of each. Nov 3, 2015