Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,672 total · 22/month
Shared By: Michael Buchanan on Apr 5, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: Overhanging handcrack/flake to a slab with 3 very closely space bolts. Super Classic Mantle moves! Slab is somewhat mottled. Burly moves at the bottom, seems more physical and less technique than Plumbline... (.9+)

P2: A lieback, finger to hand crack on a broken face. Difficult, sustained climbing up an arcing break. The crux comes early on past the second protruding tree, then a redpoint, technical/power crux comes up high at the mini-roof/undercling. Build a belay at a large pine tree if finishing, or build a belay with small gear and a slung chicken head at an overlap if continuing to the top. (.9++)

P3: Follow a small crack up the prow passing a bashie and a bolt. Build a belay and walk off. (.5)

Descend P1 by scrambling toward The Thumb (West) and back down to the base of Plumbline.

Descend P2 by scrambling west towards The Thumb down some moderate, but secure terrain.

Descend P3 via a more difficult scramble west towards The Thumb

Location Suggest change

Around the corner, up and right (east) from Plumbline.

Protection Suggest change

P1: Camalots #1-4, 3 quickdraws, one shoulder length sling w/ QD for the flake before the slab. NO BOLTED TOP ANCHOR. Can get a pink, blue, and red Lowe Tricam into detached blocks at base of the OW second pitch or sling a large block just after Hangman's finish.

P2: Standard rack of medium nuts and a full range of cams up to a #3 camalot. NO BOLTED TOP ANCHOR. Build a belay in a small over lap using micro cams.

P3: Standard light rack, and a few runners. NO BOLTED TOP ANCHOR.

Photos

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